Sacred Mountain Mount Hengshan - Nanyue

We arrived very early in the morning in Nanyue, hence we headed stright for Mount Heng. I did not want to climb the 6 hours hike and opted for the shuttle bus which was costly in a way. 

RMB 78 for a two way shuttle bus and RMB 80 for the entrance ticket. Lots of local tourist were going up the hill and all were holding on to prayer incense to be offered at the top of the mountain.

Zhurong Peak at Mount Hengshan

View at Zhurong Peak

The shuttle bus was a blessing for as the bus started winding up the road, I could tell that there was no way I would have made even the one way journey. Bus took us all the way to almost the top and the last stretch was on foot where everyone had to walk or be carried by tradditional hand carrigae. That was a bomb as well costing RMB 110 per way for a very short distance but very steep hike.

The short hike itself drag out much of my strenght and took an hour to reach the top. Mount Heng was a spiritual mountain for China and it was quite a view from the top. Taoist, Confucious and Buddist temple lined the mountain everywhere. 

Hiking to Zhurong Peak

Mid Checkpoint Hike to Zhurong Peak

Palanquin for Charter going to Zhurong Peak

On the way down we keep hopping off the shuttle bus to see some of the other temples along the mountain. Nothing too facinating but the detour to Nanyue was a fresh breather from all the touristy places. This place was rated AAAAA tourist scenic area but the visitors were mostly locals on pilgrimage.

The next day we had ample time so after a late wake up, we took a stroll into the largest temple in south China which was at the base of Mount Heng. There is nothing much to say about it I guess, just visiting and enjoying the ambiance. By 4pm we packed up and headed back to Hengyang via the colectivo and got our super late train tickets at 1105 pm to Guilin.

Grand Temple of Mount Heng

Grand Temple of Mount Heng

Super cheap tickets and lousy general class seats meant we were super tired once we reached Guilin at 4am in the morning.

Traveled on: Dec 2023

Journey from Fenghuang to Nanyue (Mount Hengshan)

Nanyue was another detour in a way which I did not expected. Similar to Fenghuang, I found out about this place through some sort of social media reel. The other big driving factor however was actually the reluctance and resistance to follow the heavenly laid out route / trail which kept subtly guiding us to either Changsha or Chongqing.

The direction was to get to Guilin, but all train connections and bus route kept forcing our journey to Changsha. Chongqing was in the wrong way and this is when I knew I was really in a small tourist trail not many ventured or at least not many foreigner ventured. 

Somehow stubborn not to be led on by an invisible hand, hours of effort was poured into the web to find another way, another route and another destination.

Fenghuang Route to Nanyue

We went to Fenghuang train station to see how our luck was holding up with train tickets to Hengyang. Bullet train check was RMB 170 with late timing making us arrive Hengyang at 8pm which does us no good in trying to catch the bus to Nanyue. 

After many round of ticket permutation check at the counter (luckily there was no one at the line and we could take our time talking with the officer trying many different permutation), we finally settle for the cheapest option.

1630 pm train ticket from Fenghuang to arrive at Huaihua South 1700 , then take a local bus through Huaihua city itself to Huaihua North train station. Burn time loitering around and board the “K” slow train at Huaihua North at 1915 heading for Hengyang arriving at 2345. Total Damange = RMB 85. Bullet train was RMB 170 so we call it a win.

We reach Hengyang at midnight out in the freezing cold. A quick look for a hostel and we found a cheap hotel which was like a last minute lodge for travellers near train station. Clean albeit like one of those rumah tumpangan for sketchy seedy stays. 

RMB 50 for two person private room with private toilet. Hard bed and a 6 hours sleep was all we need before hitting the road again to catch the first bus to Nanyue.

Nanyue by bus cost us RMB 15 yuan each and the ride was quite ok on the colectivo bus and arrived nice and early in the morning. We made it to Nanyue or more well known as Mount Hengshan one of China’s Five Sacred Mountains.

Traveled on: Dec 2023

Re-Route to Feng Huang Ancient City

Feng Huang was a new discovery for me halfway through the China leg somewhere in Yichang. I cant really remember how I found out of Feng Huang but it was somewhere along the line of wechat channel or instragram reel or maybe even a pop up advert. 

Once I had a slight info about Feng Huang, more research uncovered that it was actually a popular tourist destination that is paired with Zhangjiajie.

Fenghuang Phoenix Ancient City - China

Irony really, for when I was plotting route few months back in Malaysia, after Zhangjiajie was always a black hole not really sure how to proceed and just picking the next city on the map. The things you discover by accident while travelling trully brings new excitement. 

So from Zhangjiejie we took the train to Fenghuang and at the exit was ambush by a pretty girl wearing a traditional dress (I would later know it of the Miao ethnicity) trying to sell us train tickets or metro tickets to the city center itself.

Mini Maglev Train in Fenghuang

It turns out to be another Meglev train built entirely to boost tourism for Fenghuang Ancient City. This meglev however was slow type but still amazing that the cumbersome technology was used in such manner. 

Fenghuang itself attracted many tourist from all around China as it is not only a scenic city by the river with many haphazard old building architecture but also it was part of the minority group Miao with its charming traditional costumes and culture.

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Locals Playing Cards - Fenghuang

The city was beautiful but touristy. In a way the initial impression of FengHuang was just another touristy ancient city in China. One could never tell which is a preserved ancient city and which is rebuilt or worst, which is entirely fabricated just for tourism. 

The tourist business easily overshadow the locals and one might easily mistaken a tourist shop from an authentic Miao decendent living in the heart of the city.

Locals selling handicraft in Fenghuang

Fenghuang Nightly Lightup 

Chance encounter was with an old man whom sold paintings of white and blue made on cloth with candle wax and was smacked right in the middie of the tourist street wedged between tourist trinket.

That shop was actually his house which he had grew up in and he was already 80 years old. It’s one of those encounter with genuine shopkeepers and he showed us all his paintings as Zaine enquired one by one being mesmeriezed by his work.

I notice that the Old man had acolates and awards from international council of HK for being an establish artist and the more we interacted, he told his stories showing us picture of famous people who had bought his painting over the decades. His painting was not cheap however, the smallest one cost RMB 2800 which was all price labeled so not anyhow sput out of a whim.

Zaine & His Picture

Most of the captivating ones starts above RMB6000 and there was no pressure in selling his work either. He was just a happy Old man enjoying that we were appreciating his painting. 

Zaine got intrigued by one of the painting and I wonder if he would part with huge sum of money to buy it. The rest of the day kept him in lalaland dreaming of the painting and I was careful not to input any swaying decision into the open coversation.

The next day he decided to visit the art shop again and I advised him that it would be best if he goes alone for his negotiation with the old man. 

They manage reach an agreement for the artwork which was still quite a lot in my opinion but somethings are priceless in a way and who am I to judge what Art is worth anyway to another.

Fenghuang was dearie short visit with only one night stopover and in a way I felt a bit of regret not having the time to really peel away the tourist layer facade to see the unique heritage underneath. 

Narrow Corridors along Fenghuang Ancient City Walls 

Locals Intense Game of Chess - Fenghuang

Just walking around the ancient city itself had so many interesting hint of culture. Still it also felt that I needed some luck and more chance encounters with locals to really immerse into it. Some experience cant be force and must be invited.

Traveled on: Dec 2024

Exploring Zhangjiajie National Park

How do I even begin to descibe this place. For those that know about Zhangjiajie, this place is magical but for those that had never heard about it well I find it supprising, for a real natural wonder its weird how low key it is to the world. Think of the seven Natural Wonders of the world and this should be on the list but somehow its missing.

Zhangjiajie National Park

Setting up base at Wulingyuan town for a few nights me and Zaine proceed to explore Zhangjiajie National Park. Zaine had already gone in once yesterday but it would be my first today. Cost to go in was RMB 225 but this allow visitors to go in for a total of 4 days consequtive and free access to the numerous internal park shuttle bus systems.

Day one in and Zaine lead the way avoiding cable cars systems and the Bailong elevator which cause additional fee of RMB 70 per way. In total there was 3 cable car system and one elevator plus one special shuttle ride. 

Zhangjiajie Low Zone 

The Aim is to Hike up to the top - High Zone of Zhangjiajie 

The hike up Zhangjiajie

If one were to do all of em in every way, that would cost like 70x5x2 about 640 extra making the total excursion in ZZJ a whooping RMB 925 visit. This does not even include all the nearby attraction in Zhangjiajie surrounding vicinity such as Tianmen Mountain or the Glass Bridge Grand Canyon. 

Take note the prices above keep changing depending on seasons.

So we tried to save some money as poor backpackers naturally. There was numerous hiking trails which one could hike up and down to get to the same location that the cable car and elevator goes but each hike up and down would take at least 2.5 hours. Hike elevation difference was about 1000m.

Zhangjiajie National Park was more or less divided to the high zone and the low zone and the shuttle bus services only goes high or low and no other way. Entering the national park, one would be at the low zone and the only way to get to the high zone was either elevator, cable car or hike. Hike being the free one, we did it first. Then after walking around the small scenic area, our time was out and it was time to go down again the same path.

Zhangjiajie - Highzone 

Zhangjiajie - Highzone

Zhangjiajie - Highzone

Zhangjiajie - Highzone

Climbing up was labourous and tiring but going down was hurting the knees for me. By the time we reach down it was dark out and we were the last one out of the park. The next day I woke up with painful knees. Going up or down stairs I was really slow as a snail. 

Still I thought that it would pass and we went into the park again. Every day the plan was to wake up early to go into the park but the cold was not inviting and bed was so much better so instead about half the time spend in the park was usually from Noon to sundown.

Cable Car Ride Inside Zhangjiajie National Park

Hiking to One Step to the Sky

One Step To the Sky - Zhangjiajie

Day two in the park and I convince Zaine to do at least 1 cable car up coz my legs were fucked and no way I could do a climb up to the highzone again. The idea was go up easy and come down easy. I was so, so wrong. 

We hit this small trail at the highzone which lead us to one of the most amazing view in ZZJ park, One Step to the Sky was the name of the viewing place. One had to hike up and down a little trail from the high zone to reach it and that was where I picked up a walking stick for my legs were really getting worst and worst.

Somehow made it to One Step to the Sky but I was nowhere able to take stairs now. Going down was sideways bracing with walking stick and barristers wherever they are. Imagine a baby learning how to go down stairs the first time. I was like that baby but in pain. 

View at One Step to The Sky - Zhangjiajie 

Rest Point - One Step To the Sky - Zhangjiajie

View at One Step to The Sky - Zhangjiajie 

View at One Step To The Sky - Zhangjiajie

I surrended to Zhangjiajie National Park and spilit up from Zaine. He would go on for the walk down while I take the shuttle bus to Bailong elevator, paying money to take the elevator down and shuttle out of the park.

Day three in Wulingyuan was rest day, a day to somehow recover back the damaged legs so we could leave for Fenghuang Ancient City the next day. There was still so many parts of the Park that I had not ventured and thinking back yet I was still happy enaugh with the area we saw.

Bailong Elevator at Zhangjiajie

View from Lowzone - Zhangjiajie 

In a way I appreciate the elevator and cable car system more now, for each trail and systems was designed to actually show different part of the park and does not overlap. If one were to only hike, they would missed out the sections where cable car goes but if one were to go only by cable car, they would also missed the hike’s scenery.

Traveled on: November 2023

Towards Zhangjiajie My Main Goal of Backpacking China this round

It was the first slow train ride in China from Yichang to Zhangjiajie. Previously I only had experience the city metro system and long distance bullet train so the old slow train network was a new experience for me in China. Nice and quiet I would say with a bit of a rustic feel but the slow train was still going quite fast about 120km/hr just that they had more stops along the way compared to the bullet train.

Local Train has Way more people 

K Series Train in China (aka cheap + slow train but still quite fast)

I arrived late evening on the 1st night in Zhangjiajie town and decided to skip one of the main attraction which was the Tienmenshan Mountain Scenic Area once I found out the ticket to go up was a whooping RMB 275 for a day trip. 

At the hostel I met an Zaine an American who was also backpacking China and after a short conversation he changed his plan and checked out the next morning to tag along with me heading to Wulingyuan which was the entrance to Zhangjiajie National Park.

Arriving at Zhangjiajie Train Station

Zhangjiajie Train Station

Travel of Swan Inn Hostel in Wulingyuan was everything a backpacker could ask for. Clean dorm, quiet place, full facilities of washer and dryer and cosy common area where backpackers could chill and exchange info. 

It was also nice that it was just walking distance to the Park entrance and since Zhangjiajie Park was so famous and huge, lots of us was exchange many info on how to best explore the park.

Wulingyuan Gate Entrance to Zhangjiajie National Park

Long story short, we got sucked into the hostel for three full nights despite the higher end price of the hostel at RMB 60 per night. While trying to bargain down the price, the cute hostel receptionist Ms. Mutou told us we could get a private room for the same price. Zaine and I would pair up for a long time travelling together for a while till Guangzhou which was really unexpected for me.

Local Food in Wulingyuan

Wulingyuan

Local Food at Wulingyuan

Throughout my backpacking journey, this was the first time I had companion for a long duration. Usually it was the passing city or maybe the next stop as well but very rare the tag along would last multiple cities. First time I was able to experience the perks of sharing private room as well espescially places that did not have a dorm room.

All settled in, It was time to see the famous Zhangjiajie ...

Traveled on: Nov 2023