A Mini East Kazakhstan Loop from Oskamen

I had quite some time to go before crossing over to Russia. A week to be exact and thus decided to do a mini loop around East Kazakhstan. 

I now try to avoid going to crazy off-roads for I feel I need to conserve some energy for Mongolia and also preserve Bragge better until I could get into China where the Drive-China Guide could help me order parts and workshop to do some long overdue maintenance on the bike.

Oskamen

Oskamen

I would need a tyre change, sprocket & chain set, maybe a new rear brake pad and a fork oil seal replacement. It was still another 5000km and another month before I would reach China, so I really hope everything holds on together.

In Oskemen I finally decided to upgrade a few gears in my list. For once I bought the expensive Ultra-light self-inflated sleeping pad from Sea to Summit at Limpopo Outdoor shop which cost me a good 34900 tenge. 

My hesitation to purchase was gone since I found out that although nearly SGD 100 for a sleeping pad, the same pad in Malaysia or Singapore would easily cost SGD 150.

Limpopo Outdoor Gear Store in Oskamen - Kazakhstan

The old sleeping pad bought online from China was leaking somewhere and after so many campsites having to wake up every two hours to re-inflate the pad, I was almost done with the cheap stuff. 

It was not dirt cheap anyway costing nearly SGD 30 so a X3 price seams fair for some quality sleep. The old sleeping pad also could not keep the ground chill out, always seeping in and making cold weather camping torture.

From Oskemen I headed east towards Kazakh Altai. The roads were single lane, lovely asphalt, winding and going up and down rolling hills of sunflower plantation. It was beautiful and one of the leisure rides where I did not need to constantly fear for bad roads ahead. At the Altay Viewpoint was a piano and I had to play at least a tune before moving on.

Sunflower Fields along Kazakh Altai

Altay Viewpoint

A Piano at the Altay Viewpoint

I rode all the good roads to Altai town, not bothering to do any side tracks which may make a turn to be horrible roads. Beautiful View with horrible roads means no enjoyment at all since all focus is on the road and not the ride. Altai for a short lunch and then I rode on to the camping spot scouted from I-Overlander app.

Again, just as I reach and picked the camp spot, dark clouds were rolling in and I could smell the rain coming very soon. I quickly pitch tent first and just a quick turn, a sudden rainbow appeared causing me to pause everything and just enjoy the moment. That rainbow came and gone very fast within minutes, and I quickly rush to pitch tent.

Altai Town

Art Sculpture at Altai Viewpoint

A rainbow to mark my Camping Spot

Tent Pitch and food partially cooked, the rain started to pour. That night the rain was heavy and I was really worried inside my tent wondering if it would hold or if the water would cause a pond where choose my camp spot. 

The fly tarp was leaking water, but fortunately it somehow flow with the tarp on the inside to the ground. Sometimes it would touch the inner netting layer and then water would start to drip into the tent. Looks like I may even need to source a new tent but that would be a budget killer.

Morning View of the Campsite 

Lovely Ride to Kurshim

Next morning I took my time to pack camp. East Kazakh Altai region is simply beautiful and today destination was only Kurshim which was about 150km away. The view of Irtysh River along the ride to Kurshim was beautiful but with the weather still cloudy, I decided not to camp the second night.

Halfway to Kurshim, I could feel something was not right with the Top-box. My top bag which I usually lean on was somehow loose and not firm. Stopping and checking straps a few times, and I found the source of the problem. Another broken bracket.

Bragge left auxiliary bracket supporting the top box was broken near the foot peg. The metal broken in two and dangling there no longer supporting the box. Luckily it was a double bracket system but with the primary one already in bad shape since Tajikistan, one weaken side means the whole bracket would now creak and move with each crazy bump on the road.

I reach Kurshim and checked into the Hotel cum cafe. Took my lunch at the cafe where I met the restaurant one man army Doulet. Doulet could speak a little English, and he was a friendly chap that quickly whip me up some food. I asked him if he knew where I could find a welder in Kurshim and it turn out he was also a welder.

A little Green Steppe and a Little Amnesia Vodka

Late lunch and a shot of Vodka snaps courtesy of Doulet, he then brought me next door to find the workshop where he borrowed their welding machine and help me weld back the broken part of the bracket on Bragge. A quick job done and no money was accepted for the work.

Doulet brought me for a walk to the supermarket to get more Vodka for the night and I quickly offered to pay for the bottle. 4000 tenge for Vodka which Doulet and me drank maybe half before I surrendered and went to bed.

Doulet Helping to Weld back the Bracket

A quick Fix that Last all the back back to Malaysia

Next morning, I bid farewell to Doulet and headed to Targyn. The original plan was to camp somewhere near Sibiny Lake but the day was so gloomy that by the time I reach Targyn, it was obvious that it was going to be a wet and cold night. 

I decided to give camping for the night a pass and continue on towards Oskemen checking back into the same hotel and completing the mini loop journey.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Down Time in Ayagoz

Next morning with spirits on a high and confidence that I had time to do the long way around Alakol Lake to Ayagoz, I started the journey towards the China Border. The road would take me to Lake Zhalanashkol where it would turn left just skirting the border with China along the east side of Alakol Lake

I reached Zhalanashkol alright but then the road turning left became off-road. I did a 10km run into the off-road hoping it was just a short stretch, but it looked like it was going to be this way all the way for the next 200km. I decided to turn back not wanting to fight a bad road, especially when the end destination was not a camping site anyway.

Alakol Lake toward China Border

The Remote Nature East Kazakhstan

Zhalanashkol Lake

It was a cold ride. I was going north after all, and the weather was not sunny but gloomy and cloudy with wind gust keeping my speedometer in check below 60km/hr. The journey today that was supposed to be easy 300km became a long day as I could not speed in the gust and the wind bite forced me to layer up and still got a chill to the bone.

I reached Ayagoz late in the evening and checked into the Hotel for 8000 tenge a night. There was another biker Andrian from Russia and he helped me translate in his limited English for the hotel owner. 

Ayagoz - Kazakhstan

Hotel in Ayagoz ... I have no idea the name of the Hotel ^^

I grabbed dinner quickly later and had a little chat with Andrian in the evening. I was invited to his place in Belokurikha Russia which was really along my route to Mongolia. We’ll see how things work out in a few days once I am in Russia, but I fully planned to visit him if it was possible.

I decided to stay two nights in Ayagoz. It was due time to rest up since I was running fairly fast since Almaty and I had time. Also, after camping last night in Alakol lake and the very tiring ride fighting the wind gust to Ayagoz, I could use the break.

The free day in Ayagoz and I had to start the day nearly shitting my pants. Must be something I ate few days back or not, but I woke up with a bad stomachache going to the toilet having cold sweats with all my limbs going weak. It was a good thing I decided to stay two nights in Ayagoz I mused to myself and of course the free day was to be a sick day.

Exploring Ayagoz 

Little local Market in Ayagoz 

Ayagoz

Supprised to see a bike shop in Ayagoz

Ayagoz Park

By midday there everything was ok and I seem to be back to normal, so I headed out for lunch and a short walk to explore Ayagoz. It was really a one street kind of town. Some soviet monuments which I could not relate to being from a different part of the world, but it was a slow moment to see the daily life Kazakh people which rarely seen a tourist.

The rest of the day was spent watching TV. I had stacks of series downloaded for downtime like this apart from writing and updating blogs. It was a good free day.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Riding to Taldykorgan and Camping at Alakol Lake

The ride from Almaty to Taldykorgan was boring. Taldykorgan was also one of those town that had nothing much for tourism. I kinda like this quiet town actually, reminds me of Kyzylorda. 

Taldyqorgan

In Taldykorgon I managed to find the cheaper hotel thanks to Yandex map. Usually, I find hotel base on google map just by searching hotel then clicking each and every one of them to see the review or sometime with luck a review mentioning the price.

Central Asia however most people use Yandex map for some reason and the information seem to be more precise compared to Google Map. For example, a lot of establishment would be outdated in Google and only updated in Yandex map and also there was information on public bus route system in Yandex but none in Google Maps.

A clean and comfy room in Taldyqorgan - Dana Hotel

Dana Hotel - Taldyqorgan

Somewhere along my research after being unable to find cheap suitable hotel in Kazakhstan non-touristic cities, I started using every means possible to find information and Yandex Map yield more information than even I-overlander, booking.com and even google maps. That’s how I found Dana Hotel in Taldykorgon for a nice clean double room pricing 7000 tenge a night.

I took a ride in the evening around Taldykorgon but it really was a small town this time. Nothing much to speak about and it was decision time in the morning to either extend a day of rest and do nothing or move on to Alakol Lake

There was much time for me to burn before reaching the border with Russia so there was this thinking of chilling back another night since the hotel was reasonable priced at 7000 tenge.

Sarkand Stop for Lunch

The decision became more of a contingency plan in a way. Move on to Alakol and give more time for travel going up north in case something goes out of the planned variable. The ride from Taldykorgan to Alakol was good asphalt road all the way to Sarkand village where I stopped for lunch.

After Sarkand I decided to take the shorter route but off the main road. I really hoped for a scenic road but not too much off road. From Kabanbay village I took the offshoot and the roads were reasonable small patched and bumpy but not off-road kind. 

Only about 20km of patchy roads and it changed to good asphalt road where I could ride and curve around between the valleys of two mountain range on both sides.

Countryside Road from Kabandy Village through the Mountains to Alakol Lake

Simply Beautiful

From Kabandy Village to Alakol Lake

From Kabandy Village to Alakol Lake

The view was beautiful and I really missed this type of quiet lovely ride just enjoying life. It was a good thing I took the scenic route as well for the was a heavy rain cloud on the left which would have made the main road to Alakol wet, cold and miserable.

I reach Alakol Lake specifically near the village of Oktyabr. It was camp for the night where I quickly set up tent first while watching the rain clouds moving closer. Once the camp was set up the rain started to pour and I had to shift everything quickly under tent. That day was the first time for me trying to cook dinner under the tent instead of outside.

Rain Clouds incoming - Alakol Lake

Alakol Lake

Cooking in Heavy Rainstorm - Alakol Lake

Camping at Alakol Lake

After dinner was cooked safely without burning the tent down, the rain decided to stop, and I venture back out just to relax. The campsite was crawling with some sort of bug on the floor that look like long, tiny worm with hard shells. They were attracted to the light I had put on just to chill. It was really creepy since there was so many of them.

I ended up inside the tent fully zipped up where the bugs could not reach me and they just gathered around the little light my laptop was giving out. Morning all the bugs were gone and not a single one was in sight. Its things like that that one can’t tell when camping really but once you are there, it was quite difficult to change spots in the dead of night.

Alakol Lake, beautiful.

Alakol Lake

Alakol Lake

Travelled on: Aug 2024

Back to Almaty – More Downtime Running Chores

Kyrgyzstan downtime completed and everything stocked up, I crossed the border again (4th time now) and rode 200km to Almaty with a broken right mirror. At the pit stop 100km through the journey, I notice that my back tuning lock bolt had a screw loose. It was the double nut that was lose so I just tighten it up and did not think too much on it.

A little Kazakh Chocolate with Tea

I reach Almaty early around 3pm and headed straight for the bike Auto-shop to find a mirror replacement. Nice round mirror for 3000 tenge roughly SGD 8 for two mirrors. Two nights in Almaty, with the free day really Whoosing all around Almaty to run errands. 

Re-activated sim card to get connected, withdraw more Kazakh Tenge Cash and changed the initial portion to Russian Rubble, tracked down motorbike shop to purchase raincoat replacement, bought spare engine oil, and lastly went shopping for camping gears.

Nice New Mirrors 

Went Shopping for Bike Gears 

Camping Gears are really expensive, and I was reminded of why I started out with cheap gears. In the end I only purchased a sleeping bag liner which was something I did not have. I guess instead of upgrading the gears, I was now adding items to the gear.

The next morning as I packed up in Almaty getting ready to depart for Taldykorgan. I made a double check for the loose nut on the tuning lock bolt. It was good but on the other side of the wheel, the whole bolt and double lock nut was missing. It had dropped off.

Chain Tension Bolt somehow fell off.

This was really really lucky for I could have ended up with a twisted back tyre causing a major damage or crash. I immediately sought out the hardware store and bought replacement bolts and nuts. Luckily these are standard size item and could be found easily. Re-fixed all the tuning bolt nut and really tightening them up I was good to go for Taldykorgan.

Travelled on: Aug 2024

Going Camping in Ala Archa & Spending Days in Bishkek

It was only 30km from Bishkek to Ala Archa. I took a slow ride going to the grocery store to pick up some food than found a nice cozy restaurant for lunch where I chilled out borrowing their Wi-Fi for hours before making my way to Ala Archa around 3pm.

The National Park is nothing to shout about unless one does hikes up and further inside, but I was just lingering along the main road. Eventually I found a quiet campsite and pitch tent. The weather was biting cold even with the sun out and I decided to make a campfire for once.

Ala Archa National Park

Ala Archa National Park

Nice and toasty with the campfire but once out of stockpiled wood, it was time to sleep. It was so cold that night even though it was only reported as 14 degrees. I could barely sleep waking up and wearing everything that I had. Three layers of socks and still my feet felt like ice pack.

It was torture waiting for the morning sun and then because Ala Archa was inside a gorge, sunrise had no sun rays till it was 930am. I have to re-evaluate how to camp in cold weather in future.

Camping in Ala Archa 

Campfire

The next few days back in Bishkek was mainly walking around and looking at sports equipment store to check out the camping equipment contemplating upgrading all my gears after that near frozen experience in Ala Archa.

Good equipment was expensive and I kept browsing thinking that Almaty would be better since Decathlon was there. The one item that I took away from Bishkek making the Visa run was Tobacco. I re-stocked all my tobacco supply which should last me all the way back to Southeast Asia.

Enjoying Good Food in Bishkek

Enjoying Good Food in Bishkek

Enjoying Good food in Bishkek

These days since Kazakhstan I have been traveling alone without interacting much with people. Conversation is also sacred in a sense, and every day is like a silent motion. As usual, I did a chain lube maintenance in Bishkek since it was already more than 500km since Balkhash.

I put up the back tyre on jacks and kick in the first gear nicely spraying the chain lube onto the chain and just before I was about to release the gear to neutral, somehow the jack gave way, and the bike jerked forward tipping away from me falling and semi crashing into the wall.

Broken Right Mirror 

The wall was fine, but my right mirror was now broken. Just as I had everything on the bike in tip top conditions, all bolts fixed up nice and tight, tank leak welded, this just had to happen. There was nothing much to be done and I was leaving for Almaty the next day so was not bothered to find replacement in Bishkek.

Travelled on: Aug 2024