Playing Chess with the Locals in Bukhara

I caught up with Team Luchs and Team Donkey in Bukhara that evening. It was a reunion and we had a good long chat over dinner with Donkey telling their story for the Van repairs while I share my unexpected adventure falling and nearly dying inside the Anzob Tunnel.

All of us stayed in different places in Bukhara and the next day Luchs pushed on for Khiva while Donkey and me stayed in Bukhara to explore. How they managed to cover Bukhara in a day was beyond me. It was small alright, but I felt that this silk road city was a place where I could really slow down and just soak in the atmosphere.

Bukhara and its many monuments and buildings that looks like a storybook from Aladin

Simply Beautiful Architecture in Bukhara 

A Fruit Shop in Bukhara 

I ended up the first day in Bukhara playing chess with the locals. Two boys were just playing their own game in front of their shop and I stood watching their game and once it ended, I was offered a game. One game let to another and a good two hours was spend playing with the boys until the father came up and stop the game for lunch. If I had hang around I would have probably be treated to lunch as well but I carefully excused myself to go see at least one attraction in Bukhara.

Watching the Boys playing chess at their Fathers Carpet Shop

I got a few games in ... Did not know Chess was popular in Uzbekistan

Chor Minor was a unique little Madrasah which was unique even with all the old buildings in Bukhara. A long walk under the hot sun but it was beautiful and I was enjoying the slow pace travel now after a chaotic Tajikistan.

I took a good long walk in Bukhara but only manage to cover the eastern half for the day. The historical monuments were definitely eye-catching but going round the building shows how much in deterioration it was going through. The restoration efforts seems to be just enough to keep the tourist interested but not enough for it to be fully occupied and functional as a dwelling or business shop beyond the few near the arch.

Chor Minor - Bukhara 

Poyi Kalon - Bukhara 

Poyi Kalon - Bukhara 

The next day I decided to stay another night while Donkey push on for Khiva. I was more or less done with rushing the sightseeing and since I had an extended timeframe now with Tajikistan taking less time than anticipated, it was about time to really slow down and catch up with rest and chores like writing the journal entry.

That night however, my computer decided to go crazy. Screen was just blank but with lights on and no matter how much I tried with the long power button, short power button, F2, ctrl+shift+B or any other gimmick recommended from the internet, the screen refuse to show the normal startup. I tracked down the computer service shop the next day and they managed to fix my computer at a cheap but costly price to me.

Getting My Laptop Fixed in Uzbekistan

My SSD hardisk was fried. The computer store could fix it for a small fee of 400,000 som (USD 40) but then I would lose every data I had in the whole HDD. There were not much important files in the computer as most of my backup photos was already in external HDD but the one thing I lost painfully was the 2024 journal. All my entry from China, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan was gone and it was not going to be easy to remember the finesse, nuance with so much going on.

The next few days would be at least a crazy writing time to recall back as much as possible before resorting to boring blanks filling. At least I would have a complete Uzbekistan entry.

Travelled on: Jul 2024

 

Border Crossing from Tajikistan (Panjakent) to Uzbekistan (Samarkand) with a Malaysian Passport & Motorcycle

The border crossing from Panjakent to Uzbekistan started early in the morning after waking up at 8am. First stop was to drop by the central bazaar to find the elusive fat short man with a plastic bag that does money exchange between Tajiki Somani and Uzbek Som. 

The day before I was late waking up past 5pm from the afternoon heat and the central bazaar was already half closed so I could not find the guy. This time round in the early morning the Central Bazaar of Panjakent was bustling with people causing massive traffic congestion and just mass amount of people going in and out of the market buying daily goods. It was a chaotic yet interesting market but only if I had time to soak it in.

Leaving Panjakent 

I risked parking my bike where there was too much foot traffic and decided a little bad exchange won’t be so bad and tried the money changer out front but the lady had no Uzbek currency and directed me to the Central Market to look for that same elusive man with big plastic bag. 

I went into the market to find the guy and asking the nearest shopkeeper for money exchange soon led me to the guy sitting next to a shop. Money exchange was very fast, and I did not linger around to negotiate the rate. I was changing the balance 700 Tajiki somani anyway and got a fair rate of 1100 to 1. Money changed, I made a run for the border.

Tajikistan Side of the Border at Panjakent Crossing

Tajikistan border exit was fairly simple although I went to the wrong passport control for pedestrian and eventually got re-directed to the vehicle crossing checkpoint. The Immigration cum customs stamped me out and did not bother to collect back the temporary import permit that was issued in the Kyzyl – Alt border.

I was not too concern and continue on to the other side bracing myself for a long border crossing for the Uzbekistan side. I kinda skirted the vehicle queue all the way to the front and then it was off to immigration. 

The immigration officer for some reason can’t seem to believe that I was from Malaysia. He asked me twice if I was from Korea and even asked for more document to prove that I was from Malaysia.

I gave him my Malaysian Identity card which he scrutinizes with the passport and after nearly half an hour procrastinating, finally stamped me into Uzbekistan. It was then off to customs, and this time I just chilled around the bike chit chatting with the guards and locals for they were all curious with the bike while the customs officer tried to figure out how to key in the bike into the system.

Midway through the paperwork's process, I had to take the bike back to some camera point to get the number plate recorded. Too dirty they said and my plate had to be wipe clean for a clearer photo-shot. Camera was dead angle and could not read the back plate due to the large box so many tries and error was done going from one camera to another and eventually one of the officers asked me to dismantle the box just so they could get a camera footage of the bike with the back plate.

Little Customs /  Guardpost slip that I had to give up when entering Uzbekistan with Bragge

Paperwork done, I was good to go and the whole process crossing both borders took about an hour and half. Fairly good timing. The interesting part of this was that there were no customs papers for the bike at all. 

Everything was keyed into their system (Uzbekistan), and no copy of temporary import permit was issued for the bike. I had this small little checklist paper that was stamped by immigration, customs, animal control, and something else but it was to be handed over to the guard before leaving the compound. Luckily, I took a picture and that was my only record that the bike entered Uzbekistan officially.

Accross the Border at Uzbekistan side (Samarkand Border)

Little Tourist Information Booth where i Bought a Sim Card

Immediately after the border was a simcard booth but I was weary if this was a possible scam where they don’t activate the card but take your money knowing that you will be gone and on your way in five minutes. I was cautious for sure but seeing that the sim card cost only 50,000 som (about USD5) for 20gb a month, I guess it was cheap enough that if I got scammed it would not be too painful and proceeded to get one.

Connected to internet, Uzbek currency in pocket, it was time to really hit the road to do some distance. I decided to skip Samarkand entirely going straight for Bukhara. The idea was that I would try to get to Khiva first and slowly make my way back and visit Samarkand later.

Roads were definitely much better in Uzbekistan, but the landscape was entirely boring. Weather was also changing to high heat, dry desert landscape and it was really boring but coupled with the constant honking from Uzbek drivers every-time they overtook me gave me a fright.

Boring Desert Roads to Bukhara 

It seems bikers was a rarity in Uzbekistan. Most drivers would overtake me and give me a honk with a good thumbs up. It was friendly and good but the constant shock of being horn by these big truckers not knowing if it was danger or a passing thumbs up got to my nerve fairly quickly. It was annoying but I returned the wave and the smile whenever I could.

Travelled on: Jul 2024

To Panjakant and Giving up on 7 Lakes

It was a short distance riding today from Iskandarkul to Panjakant border town. This was the last segment of Tajikistan for me and initially this area was to be a relaxing and time burner area where I would set base in Panjakant town and do day-trips or multi-day trips into the national parks.

The Seven Lakes was one of the goals but road conditions were poor and my mental state was too week after being bashed over and over again through Tajikistan. My goal initially was just to try it and see how far I could go without stressing too much on the riding. 

Riding to Panjakant - Great Roads 

Riding to Panjakant - Great Views 

After the fall in Anzob tunnel and a limping recovery to Iskandarkul, I knew all the adventure riding plan had to stop for now.

I reached Salom Hostel in Panjakant fairly quickly by 12pm. Checked in after lunch in downtown and I collapsed into the bed sleeping till 5pm. I could tell then that my body was really exhausted and needed rest. 

Evening came and I went for a stroll to check out the central bazaar market of Panjakant. Lovely old historical bazaar which is still alive and kicking with locals going about their everyday live.

Downtown Panjakant - Clean and vibrant

Old Bazaar in Panjakant

I was there late of course so the bazaar was already closing so the main purpose of hunting down the little short guy with a big plastic bag of money to exchange Tajiki som to Uzbeki som did not happen. 

Sources from internet and talks from overlanders in hostel all confirmed that this was the place to get Uzbeki som. Money changers usually don’t have them for some reason and changing balance Tajiki som was also hard outside of Tajikistan. Central Asia still love the USD bills it seems.

Inside the Old Bazaar where life is simple

I headed back to the hostel where I met a few good people with talks of life and dreams. I spend half the time listening and the other half excusing myself to tinker with the bike. I was leaving the next day for Uzbekistan. Tajikistan had put me and Bragge through the wringer and I was ready to leave. 

Hence that evening in the hostel when everyone was socializing in the big outdoor garden patio, I striped Bragge to the bone and re-organized everything while tuning up all the gears and chain while checking a third time thoroughly for any damages from the Anzob Tunnel fall.

The next morning, I re-visited the bazaar, quickly found the man with the plastic bag to change all my Tajiki som to Uzbeki som and made a run for the border.

Traveled on: July 2024

Limping after Anzob Tunnel to Iskanderkul Lake

Surviving the Anzob Tunnel of Death, I pushed on after a short rest with many parts of my body aching but still fully functional. The bike felt off balance or maybe the handlebar was bent from the fall, but it was so minor that I could not tell and decided to just carry on heading to Iskanderkul Lake. 

Limping slowly with all the bruises and muscle ache with my mind going back and forth never really knowing if it was some serious wound of just some minor bruise.

Dark Clouds while Riding to Iskandarkul Lake

It was only another 50km to Iskandarkul but branching off the main road was a dirt-road of 30km with a minor sketchy mountain pass. It was also dark clouds ahead with light drizzle and cold winds so the ride was not so enjoyable but my hopes was ever to reach a dreamy relaxing lake where I could unwind. 

Compared to the Pamir this was nothing relative wise and I went slowly careful to listen and feel for any signs of bike damage after Anzob tunnel. By miracle it was all good.

I reach Iskandarkul early afternoon around 3pm and the paid camping ground asked for 100 som while the room with a bed was for 150 som. My adrenaline must have stopped by then and I gave up camping or cooking for a warm bed although it was so run-down the only upside was not sleeping on the ground fighting the cold at night.

Iskandarkul Lake

Considering my camping spot next to Iskandarkul Lake

Iskandarkul was beautiful but I was limping and feeling the full brunt of Anzob tunnel fall now. Right shoulder was clickily and pain could be felt like being overstretch. Groin had the same pain, like from a sudden forced split and right ankle was slightly bruising.

If I was in good condition, I would have sought out some wild camping spot in Iskandarkul and maybe even spend two nights to enjoy the cool weather. Waking up the next day, I pushed on for Panjakant town looking for comfort and a place to heal.

A peaceful time at Iskandarkul Lake

Took a room in a run down shack at Iskandarkul Lake camping ground

Traveled on: Jul 2024

Skidding and Falling Inside the Anzob Tunnel of Death.

I heard plenty of warning about the famous Anzob Tunnel of Death. Luchs warned me multiple times and numerous bikers and bicyclist in Dushanbe told stories of their journey through the Anzob tunnel yet the problem was that there was no practical alternative to the Anzob tunnel.

Pushing off from Dushanbe - Lovely Roads with Lovely Views

The tunnel is 5km long and at least it was straight but it was pitch black inside without any lighting and totally no ventilation. The locals however take the tunnels at crazy speeds and overtakes onto the oncoming lane as well making the whole experience like a death chicken game that you have no escape.

There was no practical alternative to the Anzob tunnel. That was the deciding factor really since to get to Uzbekistan, Iskandarkul Lake, Khujand or even Tashkent, one would need to go through this tunnel. The other alternative was going back through the Pamir and crossing the other crazy border the Kyzyl-Art pass which we did coming over from Kyrgyzstan.

Passing through a series of small tunnel before reaching Anzob Tunnel

Breathtaking views as I climbed to higher elevation about 2700m 

Thinking back after the fall, it made me realized that for overlanding foreigners to Tajikistan, they had no choice but to go through dangerous roads just to enter and exit the country. Anzob Tunnel was a bloodline type of infrastructure and I could not imagine why the Tajikistan government would not try to make the condition better until the fact it earned the nickname Tunnel of Deaths from all the accidents that has happened.

I knew I had no choice so I did not think too much on it. Best to stay calm instead of panicking for no reason. I stopped just before the tunnel to gear up more clothes and check that the bike and lights were all working properly then it was time to go through the 5km long of poor ventilation and pitch black tunnel.

The roads in the tunnel was fairly ok but somewhere in the midway of the tunnel where the ventilation was so bad and the lights from the tunnel entrance too far away to show any illumination, my bike skidded on something and fall. 

It felt like either a soft sandy spot or oil on the road or maybe even a water bottle but I could not tell for the fact that even with super bright spotlights on, the poor ventilation and massive amount of dust/smoke inside the tunnel cause all the bright lights to be reflected back and just blinded myself.

Bragge skidded and I fall with the bike sliding forward and myself sliding behind it, body rotating on the floor like I was on ice all the while looking around in pitch black tunnel which was lucky. Once the sliding stopped I quickly ran to the bike and tried to pick it up. 

I did a quick switch off and on to kill the engine and keep the lights on. Blinkers and every lights I could switch on was next and hoping that the next car or truck that come by would see me in time to stop and not run me or the bike over.

Fortunately another biker rocked up and he pulled over quickly dismounting to help pick up Bragge. I quickly pushed Bragge to the side and gave a thumbs up to the fellow biker. He ran off quickly for no one wanted to stay in the tunnel longer than necessary. 

I tried to ride off but for some reason the bike would not move. Checking the bike a second time showed me that the chain had dislodge from the sprokret. Tried a quick fix like how you jump a bicycle chain proved no good since the chain was popped on both front and back sprocket.

I was stuck in the middle of Anzob Tunnel with low ventilation and poor lighting hoping that every car or truck that come by wont run me over twice due to me standing dead not moving. 

There was only one way out and that was to push the bike out. I think I must have pushed Bragge about 1km before another group of biker came up and slowed down next to me. They eventually stopped in-front of me and asked me what the problem was.

Language barrier was tough but pointing at the chain gave them the idea. They quickly tied me up with their bike with the intention to tow me out. I was grateful but when the towing started I was even more afraid. 

A bike towing another bike means I had zero control and every-time the rope went slack and a sudden jerk from towing would cause me to skid a little nearly contributing to another fall. I blared my horn and shouted to slow down which the biker towing me did slow down maybe due to confusion but quickly picked up speed again.

The other bikers surrounded us and paved the way for a safe exit. Somehow I did not fall throughout the towing and manage to exit the Anzob Tunnel alive. I was really grateful to the group of bikers and before I could even catch my breath and check for injuries, one of the bikers was already opening tools to fix up Bragge dislodge chain.

Fixing up the Chain

Full Tool Kit like a pro 

A professional mechanic for he was so quick that once I had determined I was ok and started to assess Bragge, everything was already fixed up as if there was no fall at all. Like brand new and I could not believe how little damage was done from the fall. 

I gifted them my long carried bottle of Vodka 

(Yes the bottle was intact miraculously. It was tucked into the side pannier bags which was also the side that was scraping the road) 

Gifted the boys the somehow unbroken Bottle of Vodka

The whole Gang that Protected and Tow me out of Anzob Tunnel

Anzob Tunnel of Death - Tajikistan

I exchange contact with the guys. Bikers from Uzbekistan in Tashkent which I told them I would call when I drop by Tashkent in a few weeks.

Traveled on: Jul 2024