A Little Detour to Belokurikha

I started the journey from Barnaul to Bisyk late in the morning setting the navigation app for Black African Motorcycle Klub pit stop. Along the way it was cold, windy and nothing much to see as the terrain was similar to east Kazakhstan but roads were pristine.

I reach Bisyk in good time and located Black African workshop, but it was closed. I suspected that he had gone to Barnaul to join the closing of season bike event, so it was just a photo stop and then back onto the road. A quick ride around Bisyk town felt like this was an abandon ghost town. Old street was filled with unique historical building but somehow void of people.

Bisyk

Bike Point in Biysk - Black African

It was good thing that I was heading to Belokurikha then since Bisyk would have been a little wasted time. My plans changed to two nights in Belokurikha instead of two nights in Bisyk. The small roads on the map were still good tarmac all the way to Belokurikha and wonderfully manage to check into a private room at a hostel.

A short ride around Bisyk seeing old architecture buildings 

A wedding Photoshoot with old Architecture in Bisyk

Initially The Hive Hostel in Belokurikha told me they were fully booked and only one dorm bed was available for 800 rubbles a night but later in the evening offered me a private double room for 1600 rubbles a night. I took the upgrade since Russia budget was now fairly loose and I could afford some luxury especially when stay two nights in a row.

Belokurikha is a small resort town. I took a walk around the small main street seeing the local tourism scene and the next day started off by visiting a natural rock formation called the four brothers. It was a decent road with a short hike into the forest to see the rock formation, but the last part of the road was a steep 10% incline on dirt track which I did not want to risk with Bragge.

Little Sky Resort Town of Belokurikha

The road trail up to see the four Brothers Rock Formation

I opt to hike up the slope and then hit the trial into the forest. The rock formation was really something. In a forest of wood with barely any rocky ground, suddenly clustered together was some rock formation weathered to look like a human face. 

I had read that in this region of Russia “Altai” the people still believe in spirits of the nature. This rock formation felt sacred and I was glad I did a detour to see it.

Four Brothers Rock Formation in Belokurikha

Unique Rock Formations in Belokurikha

Riding back to main town for lunch, rain started pouring and did not stop. By 4pm I gave up waiting for the rain to ease up and headed back to the hostel to do laundry. It was a whole day rain affair where nothing much could be done.

There was only another location to visit in Belokurikha which was a twisting road up the mountain to the ski resort with many scenic views. With the weather against me, I would have to do it the next morning while pushing on further into Altai towards Mongolia. 

Riding out of Belokurikha towards the Altai Region

Fog, Rain and Clouds making the Journey precariously slow

The next days weather in the morning told me there was no hope in visiting the twisting road up the mountains to the ski resort in Belokurikha. It was overcast with fog barely letting the sun-rays through and partially tingly on rain.

It was time to ride on.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Motorcycle Closing Season Festival in Barnaul

The ride from Pospelikha to Barnaul was an easy 200km. I started as late as possible around 1030am. There was a reason for this as currently the time zone in Russia is different compared to Kazakhstan hence the usual morning departure after a good sunrise won’t work since morning now is considered like dawn morning.

For that reason I delayed starting journey everyday in Russia. Have a good sleep-in late till about 10am then pack and go by 1030am after the morning chill has been thaw a bit by the sun. What I could not expect was the same vast empty terrain as Kazakhstan but only with super strong cold winds which forced me to slow down the speed along the very good roads to Barnaul.

Barnaul

Barnaul

Tram in Barnaul

The chill was biting through even my new rain gear, and I was more or less frozen every hour. Luckily Russia had good stops along the main roads that I could always stop for a bite and warm up with hot tea. Food changed very fast as well. There was now a good selection of pork meals and surprisingly more vegetables as well.

I reach Barnaul in the evening and checked into Globus Hostel a cheap but clean place for 600rubbles a night but at the fringe of the city. New country and finally a new proper city. I could not resist a quick walkabout the neighbourhood and was lucky enough to find that Barnaul has lots of little nuggets like sculpture to see while walking around.

Two nights in Barnaul and a full free day. I spend the whole day just walking nearly 10km going slowly through the city. People went about their lives without much foreign tourist or rather almost none at all. The first impression of Russian people was hard to affix.

Barnaul symbol is B with the Hidden Bear

Barnaul The city in Siberia

Barnaul the city in Siberia

One moment a local would stop and greet me in English but at another point when I sought out some help to find the post office, I got the door slam in my face as the international sign that they were not interested to help. It went on like this for the whole day in Barnaul and I am not sure what to make of the people in Russia.

In the evening I got a text from Andrey which I met in Ayagoz. The plan to visit him in Belokurikha had changed since he had come to Barnaul to attend the Motorcycle Club event “Closing of Riding Season festival” I went to the pre-festival since the actual was the next day and I had to leave Barnaul to conserve the precious days of my Visa.

A photo with local bikers in Barnaul Bike Closing season Festival

The Motorcycle Closing Season Festival Venue in Barnaul

Open space a day before the Motorcycle Closing Season Festival in Barnaul 

The riders swarmed me the moment I ride in and they were super friendly asking as much question as their English could muster. Barely 10 minutes in and I was offered Vodka. No alcohol when riding I told them and immediately they offered a cabin bed for me to stay the night so I could drink up with them. Thinking fast, I told them that my bags and stuff is in the hotel so I really can’t.

Vodka offers carefully rejected and the next guy asked if I like Russian women. I think this is a common theme in Russia when chatting up a new friend from abroad. I can see that this is normal to them. 

Andrey help extract me by bringing me to visit the bike bar in Barnaul city for a photo-shot and after I bade goodbye for if I had returned with him to the bike festival grounds, I would probably end up regretting but have a crazy story to tell.

Me & Andres at Barnaul Motorcycle Pub

Inside the Motorcycle Pub in Barnaul 

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Border Crossing from Shemonaikha (Kazakhstan) to Mikhailovka (Russia) with a Malaysian Passport and Motorcycle

This crossing was long in the planning from way back nearly three months ago in Kyrgyzstan where I had to apply the Russia Transit Visa. The drawback was I could not enter Russia until a specific date as stipulated in the Visa so while I ran out of things to do and explore in Kazakhstan, I had to just chill and relax in Oskemen for a few nights to wait for today.

I decided not to rush things too much going from one place to another place every night. Thus, I was waiting in Oskemen for a good three nights relaxing and started the journey today early morning at 9am for the border. It was a good 140km from Oskemen to the border, but the roads were fair and the view was rolling colours.

I reached the border sometime around 12pm Kazakh time. Immigration was a bit slow while they tinker about their computer system but still stamped me out within 20 minutes. Customs were really through and made me opened up every box, bag, wraps just for the officer to take a look before I had to painstakingly repack everything.

Altai Border between Kazakhstan - Russia 

Tobacco was nearly confiscated as well but after bringing the packs to a senior officer for review, they let me pass. Apparently, it was electronic ciggy or Vape that was not allowed and the young officer was a bit confuse with tobacco packs. Standard questions were asked, any narcotics, any guns, any tasers which I replied No and it was all good to go.

A short ride over to the Russian side of the border and this time the process took a bit longer. Immigration keyed in stuff into their system, registered the bike but did not issue any temporary import permit. So apparently the custom declaration papers that I had from Kazakhstan way back at the Shymkent Border was still valid in Russia as part of the customs union.

Border Crossing at Kazakhstan side 

Border Crossing at the Russia Side

Next was the interview. I had read online that some people got stuck for 4 hours for the interview process just waiting about. Went into the room and a questionnaire paper was given to me to fill up by hand.

Simple questions like name, address, phone number and family particulars which I scratch off the answers quickly. Phone IMEI number was taken and also keyed into the system, a photograph via camera phone on a height backdrop and that was it.

The officer did not really ask too many question but asked me to wait outside for a bit. I figured that was the slow process that may or may not take 4 hours while he sends them over to somewhere waiting for the checks to be cleared. 10 minutes later, I was given back my passport and told all was good and welcome to Russia.

The whole process of crossing the border took maybe one and half hour but I could not be sure for suddenly the time on my phone was off the mark. Later I realized that the time zone was different with this part of Russia having a +7 time zone compared to Kazakhstan which had a +5 time zone.

I was in. DAH !! RUSSIA.

Since the crossing was much more efficient that I expected, I stop at the first semi marked restaurant cum sim card cum vehicle insurance along the road to pick up the basics and then it was a lovely ride to a town called Pospelikha

Stop at the first Cafe cum Restaurant cum Insurance cum Simcard stop after the border

A lovely ride to Pospelikha

Travelled on: Sep 2024

A Mini East Kazakhstan Loop from Oskamen

I had quite some time to go before crossing over to Russia. A week to be exact and thus decided to do a mini loop around East Kazakhstan. 

I now try to avoid going to crazy off-roads for I feel I need to conserve some energy for Mongolia and also preserve Bragge better until I could get into China where the Drive-China Guide could help me order parts and workshop to do some long overdue maintenance on the bike.

Oskamen

Oskamen

I would need a tyre change, sprocket & chain set, maybe a new rear brake pad and a fork oil seal replacement. It was still another 5000km and another month before I would reach China, so I really hope everything holds on together.

In Oskemen I finally decided to upgrade a few gears in my list. For once I bought the expensive Ultra-light self-inflated sleeping pad from Sea to Summit at Limpopo Outdoor shop which cost me a good 34900 tenge. 

My hesitation to purchase was gone since I found out that although nearly SGD 100 for a sleeping pad, the same pad in Malaysia or Singapore would easily cost SGD 150.

Limpopo Outdoor Gear Store in Oskamen - Kazakhstan

The old sleeping pad bought online from China was leaking somewhere and after so many campsites having to wake up every two hours to re-inflate the pad, I was almost done with the cheap stuff. 

It was not dirt cheap anyway costing nearly SGD 30 so a X3 price seams fair for some quality sleep. The old sleeping pad also could not keep the ground chill out, always seeping in and making cold weather camping torture.

From Oskemen I headed east towards Kazakh Altai. The roads were single lane, lovely asphalt, winding and going up and down rolling hills of sunflower plantation. It was beautiful and one of the leisure rides where I did not need to constantly fear for bad roads ahead. At the Altay Viewpoint was a piano and I had to play at least a tune before moving on.

Sunflower Fields along Kazakh Altai

Altay Viewpoint

A Piano at the Altay Viewpoint

I rode all the good roads to Altai town, not bothering to do any side tracks which may make a turn to be horrible roads. Beautiful View with horrible roads means no enjoyment at all since all focus is on the road and not the ride. Altai for a short lunch and then I rode on to the camping spot scouted from I-Overlander app.

Again, just as I reach and picked the camp spot, dark clouds were rolling in and I could smell the rain coming very soon. I quickly pitch tent first and just a quick turn, a sudden rainbow appeared causing me to pause everything and just enjoy the moment. That rainbow came and gone very fast within minutes, and I quickly rush to pitch tent.

Altai Town

Art Sculpture at Altai Viewpoint

A rainbow to mark my Camping Spot

Tent Pitch and food partially cooked, the rain started to pour. That night the rain was heavy and I was really worried inside my tent wondering if it would hold or if the water would cause a pond where choose my camp spot. 

The fly tarp was leaking water, but fortunately it somehow flow with the tarp on the inside to the ground. Sometimes it would touch the inner netting layer and then water would start to drip into the tent. Looks like I may even need to source a new tent but that would be a budget killer.

Morning View of the Campsite 

Lovely Ride to Kurshim

Next morning I took my time to pack camp. East Kazakh Altai region is simply beautiful and today destination was only Kurshim which was about 150km away. The view of Irtysh River along the ride to Kurshim was beautiful but with the weather still cloudy, I decided not to camp the second night.

Halfway to Kurshim, I could feel something was not right with the Top-box. My top bag which I usually lean on was somehow loose and not firm. Stopping and checking straps a few times, and I found the source of the problem. Another broken bracket.

Bragge left auxiliary bracket supporting the top box was broken near the foot peg. The metal broken in two and dangling there no longer supporting the box. Luckily it was a double bracket system but with the primary one already in bad shape since Tajikistan, one weaken side means the whole bracket would now creak and move with each crazy bump on the road.

I reach Kurshim and checked into the Hotel cum cafe. Took my lunch at the cafe where I met the restaurant one man army Doulet. Doulet could speak a little English, and he was a friendly chap that quickly whip me up some food. I asked him if he knew where I could find a welder in Kurshim and it turn out he was also a welder.

A little Green Steppe and a Little Amnesia Vodka

Late lunch and a shot of Vodka snaps courtesy of Doulet, he then brought me next door to find the workshop where he borrowed their welding machine and help me weld back the broken part of the bracket on Bragge. A quick job done and no money was accepted for the work.

Doulet brought me for a walk to the supermarket to get more Vodka for the night and I quickly offered to pay for the bottle. 4000 tenge for Vodka which Doulet and me drank maybe half before I surrendered and went to bed.

Doulet Helping to Weld back the Bracket

A quick Fix that Last all the back back to Malaysia

Next morning, I bid farewell to Doulet and headed to Targyn. The original plan was to camp somewhere near Sibiny Lake but the day was so gloomy that by the time I reach Targyn, it was obvious that it was going to be a wet and cold night. 

I decided to give camping for the night a pass and continue on towards Oskemen checking back into the same hotel and completing the mini loop journey.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Down Time in Ayagoz

Next morning with spirits on a high and confidence that I had time to do the long way around Alakol Lake to Ayagoz, I started the journey towards the China Border. The road would take me to Lake Zhalanashkol where it would turn left just skirting the border with China along the east side of Alakol Lake

I reached Zhalanashkol alright but then the road turning left became off-road. I did a 10km run into the off-road hoping it was just a short stretch, but it looked like it was going to be this way all the way for the next 200km. I decided to turn back not wanting to fight a bad road, especially when the end destination was not a camping site anyway.

Alakol Lake toward China Border

The Remote Nature East Kazakhstan

Zhalanashkol Lake

It was a cold ride. I was going north after all, and the weather was not sunny but gloomy and cloudy with wind gust keeping my speedometer in check below 60km/hr. The journey today that was supposed to be easy 300km became a long day as I could not speed in the gust and the wind bite forced me to layer up and still got a chill to the bone.

I reached Ayagoz late in the evening and checked into the Hotel for 8000 tenge a night. There was another biker Andrian from Russia and he helped me translate in his limited English for the hotel owner. 

Ayagoz - Kazakhstan

Hotel in Ayagoz ... I have no idea the name of the Hotel ^^

I grabbed dinner quickly later and had a little chat with Andrian in the evening. I was invited to his place in Belokurikha Russia which was really along my route to Mongolia. We’ll see how things work out in a few days once I am in Russia, but I fully planned to visit him if it was possible.

I decided to stay two nights in Ayagoz. It was due time to rest up since I was running fairly fast since Almaty and I had time. Also, after camping last night in Alakol lake and the very tiring ride fighting the wind gust to Ayagoz, I could use the break.

The free day in Ayagoz and I had to start the day nearly shitting my pants. Must be something I ate few days back or not, but I woke up with a bad stomachache going to the toilet having cold sweats with all my limbs going weak. It was a good thing I decided to stay two nights in Ayagoz I mused to myself and of course the free day was to be a sick day.

Exploring Ayagoz 

Little local Market in Ayagoz 

Ayagoz

Supprised to see a bike shop in Ayagoz

Ayagoz Park

By midday there everything was ok and I seem to be back to normal, so I headed out for lunch and a short walk to explore Ayagoz. It was really a one street kind of town. Some soviet monuments which I could not relate to being from a different part of the world, but it was a slow moment to see the daily life Kazakh people which rarely seen a tourist.

The rest of the day was spent watching TV. I had stacks of series downloaded for downtime like this apart from writing and updating blogs. It was a good free day.

Travelled on: Sep 2024