China Day 13 – Sanmenxia to Xian

I had my first private room in China in Sanmenxia. All this while I was lucky to share either a triple room with Tsevtan & John or a Twin room with either Tsevtan or John. With our Guide Joe making good reasonable hotel choices that was not skyrocket expensive, this China crossing was turning out to be more cost effective that I could possibly hope for.

Just for comparison, Tibet private room cost me about RMB 360 and now the first private room was RMB 138. On average we were coasting between RMB50 to RMB70 every night sharing. Sanmenxia was the first time we all three splits as John was still recovering in Pingyao and Tsevtan decided to go solo to get a good night sleep due to my snoring.

GPS bringing me to see unknown / real China 

GPS asking me to go through Flooded Tunnel ..... 

To be fair, he snored too and loudly but then I sleep through almost anything. It was also costing me some quality sleep as Tsevtan had woke me up (I Think) four times during the night to stop me from snoring for he was getting lack of sleep. So today the split was for both of us to get some quality rest and hopefully I don’t loose a roommate due to snoring.

The ride from Sanmenxia to Xian was cold. Although we started early, we did not start together. After breakfast I packed up and push off not knowing where Tsevtan was. My bike would not start, and this gave me a little panic but after a little coaxing it finally fired up and I was relieved.

It was a cold and wet foggy day, but the worst part was the AMAP navigation for bikes brought me to weird places doing detours into small roads, villages and finally an underpass that was flooded so deep that it was not passable. Luckily there was a side footpath that I could somehow leverage to go through but by then I was seriously doubting the reliability of the route.

Entrance to Terracotta Museum & Archeological Site

Admission Ticket to Terracotta Museum & Archeological Site 

Terracotta Museum 

I decided to switch the navigation to Car and risk trying to enter the highway. I was closed enough to the next province border and hopefully the toll gate at Henan province would have a gap and also the personnel won’t stop me. Approaching the toll gate, I hid behind a big truck and then after rode slowly and carefully not to get hit by the barrier as it came down.

Once it was down and I saw the gap, I made my way through carefully and somehow could not understand the toll personnel that was shouting at me in Chinese that motorcycle is not allowed to enter the highway. Huh? … anyway, I was through so off I go hitting the highway for Xian.

Beautifully Preserved Pottery of Terracotta Warrior 

Beautifully preserved Pottery of Terracotta Horse 

I turn off the highway near Xian and this was ok since I was already in the Shaanxi province where bike was allowed on highway, maybe, I think. By 1330 I was parking my bike at the famous Terracotta of Xian tourist attraction, buying a ticket and spend the next three hours just amazed by the wonders of pottery warriors.

Terracotta of Xian is a must visit for anyone coming to China, however the mass hoard of tourism in China has made all these unique places to visit partially sanitized since one could not fully enjoy the mystic moment without being shoved every two seconds by some stranger trying to get a photo. 

I was somehow lucky to be there when there was not too much crowd, so shoving was less prominent and with a little patience, there was quite a few moments where I was left alone.

Terracotta Archeological Site 

Terracotta attraction done, I rode on to Xian downtown stopping by a motorcycle workshop to get some maintenance done on Bragge. Bragge had crossed the 50k mark now and the mechanic at the workshop kept marveling at how the two-year-old bike looked like a 10 year old bike by how all the battle scars had accumulated throughout this trip.

Engin oil change, Front & Rear sprocket + Chain was changed. Rear Tyre sprocket ball bearing was inspected and deemed so bad by the mechanic that they also change it for free. 

Getting Good Service & Maintenance Done in Xian Motocycle Shop 

Getting Good Service & Maintenance Done in Xian Motorcycle Shop 

Oiled my main frame handlebar and now it was more free for turning but there was no way to fix the leaking right front fork seal. They also found out that my left rear suspension was also leaking hydraulic fluid.

I was really limping back home.

Traveled on: October 2024

China Day 12 – Shaolin Temple – The Birthplace of Kung Fu

Shaolin Temple at Songshan Mountain. We woke up today super early like before the sunrise just to have breakfast at 7am so we could walk over to the entrance of Shaolin Temple Scenic Area. China has perfected the art of monetizing every tourist attraction, even temples without exceptions.

Songshan Shaolin Scenic Area Grade AAAAA - Unesco Heritage 

Shaolin Temple Main Entrance

Shaolin Temple is known as the birthplace of Kung Fu some might say. The original temple was burn down back in 1929 and then rebuilt completely in 1989. Coupled with the mass tourism of people, some might balk at the novelty of the attraction but for me the essence and spirit of Kung Fu birthplace is still there while you walk around being hazed by monks trying to sell trinkets riddled with donations.

They had a daily performance almost every hour and while it looked really commercialized, it was fun, so I enjoyed it a lot. Seeing some dislocated joints body movement coupled with crazy circus type acrobatics, I have to say that I won’t be doing any Kung Fu anytime soon. The rebuilt temple however was beautiful despite what negative comments others will tell you.

The Famous Tree with Holes due to Finger Kung Fu practice

Shaolin Temple 

Shaolin Temple Main Hall

Shaolin Temple Famous Hall for the Broken Ground from Kung Fu Stomping 

Tsevtan & me decided to really explore the place so we even explore past the pagoda forest and went up a cable car to see the Second Abbot seclusion temple. By the time we got back to the hotel and packed up to start the day’s journey, it was already 1230pm. I had a quick lunch while Tsevtan pushed off early.

The ride for today was miserable. It was raining, cold, freezing, foggy and the damaged roads were wet + slippery. It was all the worst combination for riding minus only being during the day instead of night. That was the only good part for Tsevtan & I decided to break off from the standard daily programme schedule today.

Shaolin Temple Daily Kung Fu Performance 

Shaolin Temple Kung Fu Demonstration 

Second Abbot Seclusion Temple 

Cable Car to the Second Abbot Seclusion Temple 

Instead of riding 400+km to Lingtong as per the guide recommendation, we only did 200km to Sanmenxia, splitting off from the main group and booking our own accommodations. The rest of the group did the crazy dash to Lingtong but then they also did not linger very long at the Shaolin Temple.

I reach the hotel at Sanmenxia just nice at sunset 6pm with both my hands numb and almost senseless due to the cold. A little walk around this normal town of Sanmenxia where the locals barely see a tourist internationally or locally was a very different experience from chasing sight after sight in China.

Sanmenxia 

Life is simple and life is beautiful. Even in a country with 1.4 billion people, there are so many peaceful and open space town like Sanmenxia that is unknown to the world.

Travelled on: Oct 2024

 

China Day 11 – Guoliang Village to Longmen Grottoes

I woke up really early today for it was going to be another long day. I figured while every biker would take the national road, I would just hit the highway to get to the main attraction for today which was Longmen Grottoes.

Longmen Grottoes 

The days now is blended into pure grit and grind. We can rest once we leave China, but while we are in China, it was grit and grind time going long distance riding during the day and visiting sites after sites non-stop with overwhelming experience and senses.

My plans to take the highway crashed and burned almost immediately. Turns out, since we had just crossed the Henan Province boundary yesterday, motorcycle was not allowed onto the highway in this province. Riding into the province via highway was ok but trying to get onto the highway from within Henan Province was not allowed.

Some Flats Scenic Ride from Guoliang Village to Longmen Grottoes 

This caught me off guard and after the second try which also got rejected, there was nothing much I could do other than go via the national road. It was a long ride and by the time I reached Longmen Grottoes it was nearly 4pm. I am definitely now the slowest of the group or at least within the bikers.

Longmen Grottoes was famous for the Buddha statue carvings and there were thousands of them just carved into the cliff edge. It’s hard to describe in my own words really and copying a description from the internet feels wrong. 

Its one of the places where even a mountain of tourist visiting the area would not be a deterrent to visit it. That’s how breathtaking it was. A historic man-made beauty.

Longmen Grottoes 

Longmen Grottoes 

Longmen Grottoes 

Including Longmen Grottoes, I had seen a total of three Grottoes in China. The Magao Grottoes in Dunhuang, Kizil Grottoes in Xinjiang and this one. While they have the word Grottoes in common, other than being set in a cave by the cliffside, everything else had nothing in common. The Buddha, style and even atmosphere is totally different.

Again, I left the attraction at sunset. This is becoming a trend now. I still had to ride 50km from Longmen Grottoes to Dengfeng today which was where the hotel was. Riding a motorbike at night is horrendous in China. 

While I have done many nights riding in China due to stretching time to see more things, it is still unnerving and I think something cracked in me that day and the following day I decided some changes need to be done.

Travelled on: Oct 2024

China Day 10 – Pingyao to Guoliang Village

The journey started late morning in Pingyao to Guoliang Village and after saying goodbye and Goodluck to John which would stay in Pingyao to recover and do a solo ride to Xian for a rendezvous in two days, I hit the highway to cover more distance quickly.

The last 50km segment however I decided to take the national road which looked shorter than the big highway loop. The roads were snaking through ravine of mountain rock cliff with beautiful view and went through multiple rock tunnels that made me cringe from darkness every time.

Beautiful View going through Local Mountain Pass

Beautiful Views nea Guoliang Village 

At one tunnel, it was closed off and AMAP navigation directed me through a bypass which went through local village going up higher and higher along the edge of the geopark formation. It was beautiful and breathtaking and to be honest, it was the highlight of the day even after seeing Gouliang Village later that day.

Closed Tunnel Under Construction

Narrow Mountain Pass Roads 

I reach the Guoliang Village Scenic Entrance fairly late and parked my bike going straight for the ticket office and shuttle bus. By 5pm I was at the starting point of the scenic point where the tunnels were carved into the edge of a vertical cliff in 1972. It was crazy and made no sense but people with nothing much to do decided to make a shortcut road to their village.

Hiking up I could only smile seeing the small little settlement on top of the cliff. It reminded me of Naruto and the Hidden Cloud Village. It felt just like the right moment at that time. I walked down and out of the attraction at sunset and by then Lukas and Steffi was arriving and the hotel owner somehow knew I could speak Chinese latched onto me to do all the translation for a manual check-in at the local police station.

Road Carved through Mountain rock to Guoliang Village 

Road Carved through Mountain Rock to Guoliang Village 

The crackline in the mountain 

At this part of China where local tourism dominates instead of international tourist, the old system was still in practice where foreigners after checking into the hotels has to make a trip with the hotel owner to the nearest police station to register the overnight stay. 

These days all over China the registration is done at the Hotel, systematically linked to the police database but we were really remote enough that the tech upgrade have not reach these parts yet.

Roadway Carved along the Cliffside to Guoliang Village 

Lited up Road at Night 

Travelled on: Oct 2024

China Day 9 – Pingyao Rest Day & Learning the China Medical System

Pingyao was a double night rest day. I am really liking this pace where every three to four days we get a double night rest day having a full free day to laze around and kick back a little bit. 

Still, I also knew that those precious days are usually planned to be at interesting places that even a week won’t do it justice so it’s like a blessing but still a slight curse because there is too much things to see and do.

Pingyao Ancient City

Pingyao Ancient City

Pingyao Ancient city was one of the best-preserved Han architecture Ancient City in China and most of us woke up early in the morning to go exploring after breakfast. The weather for this precious free day however was cold and pouring rain for the whole day. That did not stop any of us thou and everyone gear up with raincoats and went strolling around.

John was feeling not so good, so I first went with him to the pharmacy to get more cough meds. The group was supposed to meet up at the south gate to explore Pingyao Ancient city together but as expected, every one of us got distracted either on the way to the gate or when exploring the inner walls.

John split up quickly going for the main central tower then headed back to the hotel to rest. The rest of the group just walk around meeting and splitting doing our own exploration. I have seen many Ancient Cities in China by now and after a while all of them blends together a bit to look like a tourist gimmick street.

Pingyao Ancient City Private Residential Photoshoot

Pingyao Ancient City Private Residential Photoshoot

Pingyao Ancient City at Night

Pingyao Ancient City however was slightly different as there was pristine private residential of wealthy merchant in the past which are now converted to hotels or photo shooting places. The details and multiple mazes once going off the main street made Pingyao a heaven for hidden gems while exploring.

It was a nice day off with no crazy sightseeing beyond just walking around the Ancient City and with facilities catered for tourism, we also managed to find some long-required foot massage. That evening when I got back to the hotel for a short rest, John was out of commission. He started to have a fever. It did not seem that bad, but he skipped dinner with the gang.

That night I would have the opportunity to experience the Chinese Healthcare system through John. Joe our guide got a message from John asking for help to see a doctor and after dinner I accompany John and Joe to the hospital. 

Follow the Blue Line to CT Scan room

CT Scan in Public Hospital of Pingyao

It was interesting to see how China medical system works. We went to the nearby public hospital and got John registered and immediately the doctor examines him.

There was no queue and barely any patient at 9pm. The doctor ordered a CT scan, Ultrasound and also a blood test which was done also immediately without any queue or delay. The results all came back within 20 minutes and by then the doctor was in deep thought diagnostic on John case.

My best guess was it was nothing serious, but the doctor still asked for a second doctor's’ opinion and then a third doctor opinion before all agreeing that a simple medication would suffice. 

Overkill would be a generous term. In Malaysia John would have to wait maybe four hours before seeing the doctor since he was still happily chatting away with a slight fever.

John did not feel that he could do the long journey the next day to Gouling Village, so some backup plans had to be made. Joe said he could ride the bike and John could piggyback on one of the campers and rest. I asked Joe what kind of bike he had ridden before and the reply was a soft three-wheel motorcycle.

I must be getting old and could not really register the information. I did however made John let Joe go for a test ride once we got back to the hotel that night even though it was late. 

When John had to explain how the clutch and gear works, I was laughing internally, slowly taking out my camera and getting ready to take a video.

Sure enough, Joe barely moves before he tumble down unable to figure out how to balance a heavy Africa Twin bike. Backup plan B it was and John stayed put in Pingyao while we all push on for the next two days. 

The plan was that he would join us directly at Xian two days later giving him more time to rest and recover in Pingyao.

Travelled on: Oct 2024