Back in Boten the Starting Line to Meet New Friends.

I arrived Boten a good two nights before the pre-determined time for border crossing into China. The China-Tibet whatsapp group was noisy now with updates from all the other overlanders making their way to the border.

Naturally, everyone of them cursed the last 20km of bad roads to Boten but then it was time to meet up random strangers and you never know if the group dynamics would make the journey awesome or just plain horrible.

New Friends - China Crossing From Laos to Kyrgyzstan in May 2024

I also have a theory that there is a reason we all travel mostly solo without a big caravan of friends. People can be anoying and traveling a month together might be just long enaugh that smiles would crack.

It was a big group in a way. Six vehicles and Six motorcyle with a total of 19 people. Everyone was making the trip to Europe and I was the only one doing a loop to Central Asia. 

While I would like to introduce the group dynamics in this blog, I feel that it may be my bias opinion and posting without letting them know feels a bit wrong and getting consent from 19 people is just not worth the hassle.

So in simple terms, we have a group of people from multiple countries, A good few Malaysians, Singaporeans, Australians, Thailand, Denmark, Czech Republic, Germany, England and American. A good mix with at least all the Malaysian & Singaporeans able to speak the local Chinese Languege.

What I did observed however was that it was evident that my budget for this trip was not on the same scale as the rest. Luxury overland travel and tight budget overland travel comparison. They all more or less has an end goal to their travel while I was trying to drag my unemployment as long as possible.

Somehow it feels unreal sitting at the restaurant table in Boten meeting everyone and exchanging stories. I still could not belived that this time I would really cross into Central Asia. 

My little knowledge and experience of riding in China a year ago was bombarded with question from the rest of the group hungry for information.

I felt a little like a tour guide with a smile. If only I could get a job like this in the future, bringing overlanders through crazy adventures and making friends that would last a lifetime.

Traveled on: May 2024

Hiding from Tourist Police in Huay Xai and Luang Namtha

Ninja mode was activated after the dramatic border entry and somehow managing to dodge the tourist police scam. I was slightly paranoid but the amount extorted was exhorbitant for 2000 baht. 

A cross check to the whatsapp group from other China Crossing tour participant confirmed that other border entry into Laos did not have such nonsense requirement. 

Lazing around in Huay Xai

One other camper that did cross the same border a few weeks earlier got caught up in the scam but managed to negotiate the "price" down to 500 baht. Legitimate SCAM confirmed since proper documentation would not have a possibility of price negotiation. 

Still it was better to be prepared and avoid trouble instead of attracting attention so I laid low in Huay Xai just doing nothing watching TV in the hotel and after the third day when I thought the Tourist Police would have forgotten me and not work during a weekend, I made a push for Luang Namtha.

Pushing on to Luang Namtha

Luang Namtha for two nights in a familar town and I was more relax now that I was away from Huay Xai. I saw a few overlander vehicle at the guesthouse in Luang Namtha but kept my excitement to myself. It was just the beginning of the big trip so excitement was expected.

The journey to Boten from Luang Namtha was as horrible as I remembered. Stupid potholed roads of unimaginable degree. There was however a new additional stop which was a new PTT Petrol Station at Nataey with Amazon Cafe. 

A group of Malaysian & Singaporean Bikers heading to China 

A good break and as I sip my last possibly iced Thai Black Tea for a while many bikers from Malaysia and Singapore stopped by en-route to China.

Touring China was a norm now it seams but every group had a tour leader from Malaysia sucking double the money. Tour Leader from Malaysia takes a cut from the China tour guide so effectively the riders were paying more for having two tour guides but what can you do since they control the group and prevent outsider from joining without paying the price.

I had to pay the same price of information last year in 2023 when I did the test ride to China. Only 10 days round trip in China and it was more expensive than the upcoming trip in two days which would last me 27 days through Tibet and Xinjiang to cross over to Kyrgyzstan. 

This time I go direct with www.drive-china.com joining true overlanders which are all individual, unafraid of a little adventure.

The riders came and go all heading to Boten before entering China. I pushed off after all of them left and made my way through the last horrible 20km of mud roads to Boten for the night. Finally back at the starting line proper after two years.

Traveled on: May 2024

Route Info – From Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur) to Laos (Boten)

This time round there was not much motivation for me to explore in Malaysia even though I had started the journey. I went straight for Cameron Highlands looking for cool weather retreat a few days and checked into a cosy hostel to run some routes and planning check again.

For some reason, I make plans and decision best on the road in unfamiliar hostel. I had always love Cameron Highlands for some reason. The mountains has a special call to me that just being there makes the soul smile. Beach are nice but mountains are nicer.

After a few days just lazing around going from one tea place to another it was time to move on. I packed up and went straight to the Thailand border. 

This time around I would cross into Betong a new part of Thailand which I had yet to explore which makes it a great starting and warm up breaking the monotonous ride up north through mostly places that I had visited before.

The route I took this time round was almost 70% a repeat of the previous journey in 2018 with Bluey but there were some new spots along the way.

Route Info - Malaysia to Thailand to Cambodia to Thailand to Laos to China 

Betong to Yala to Hatyai
- A New Route on the most southern part of Thailand

Hatyai to Krabi to Phuket
- A repeated route always to visit cuz in Phuket

Phuket to Laem Son National Park to Hua Hin
- A new National Park to explore but mostly a mad dash covering crazy distance all the way to Hua Hin

Hua Hin
- Usual pit stop to service bike on the way up

Hua Hin to Bangkok
- A repeated route along the coast and salt farms

Bangkok to Chantaburi (Chao Lao Beach)
- Going Through more simple uninteresting roads to skip Chon Buri & Rayong

Chao Lao Beach to Pailin (Cambodia)
- Another mindless dash to the Border so I can Gamble at the Border Casino for a few days

Pailin to Siam Reap to O’Smach
- A repeated route chilling and passing time in Cambodia

O’Smach to Roi Et to Phetchabun
- New Road but Repeated Destination

Phetchabun to Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park to Pa Daeng Sub District
- New Route through remote nature.

Pa Daeng Sub District to Lamphang to Chaing Mai
- New Route & New Destination and for the purpose of celebrating Thailand New Year (Songkran) in Chaing Mai

Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son Loop (Salawin River Detour + Ban Rak Thai Detour )
- Another run at Mae Hong Son Loop but this time through the north burning season which was horrible

Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong
- A repeated route with familiar destination revisiting same tourist sights.

Chiang Khong to Huay Xai to Luang Namtha to Boten
- A regular route to China

Day 10 – Border Crossing from Mohan (China) to Boten (Laos) and Onwards to HuayXai

Day 10 in China, which was basicly a short ride to the border and process exit and re-entry into Laos. We tried to cross the Mengla-Boten border early in the morning and after much goodbyes to Bing and much photo taking it was time.

Last Group Photo before Leaving China

By our good fortune, somehow the immigration system in China was down. Or rather the system that is needed for vehicle to clear is down but the foot traffic was ok.

The three girls riding pillion crossing by foot did not know this and cleared nicely into Laos while all the boys with the bikes was stuck in quarantine zone waiting for the system to be back online. 

The long wait not knowing when the Customs system will be back online

At this point, Some wonder if we would get a free Day 11 in China 

A good 8 hours we waited and slept. Even negotiated with the officer to leave the bike in quarantine while we left the compound to get lunch and tapao for the girls where Bing did a shuttle passing food from the border fence.

The hold up was unfortunate but instead of staying a night at Boten, the crazy captain decided with the rest of the gang to push on riding through the night in Laos all the way to Huay Xai for the night. 

That was one crazy ride without clear light to see the f*cking potholed roads with slopes and ditch barely visible. I was last this time for real. No amount of speeding could I do to catch up. Visibility for me was poor with double glasses fogged up. Rain killed more visibility and cold drench gear made me even more tired and shivering.

Double Rainbow near Luang Namtha just before Sunset

My roomate Sea Pirate and Beno really helped me out once the sun set. They hung back and escorted me lighting up the way with their powerful PIAA lights. I could follow to a point and then Beno went too fast and I had to slow down terribely but Khairul stuck through ...

By the grace of god as the group like to say, we all made it in one peice ... I f*cking cursing under my skin for this was not a forced event but a choice forced upon us. Still a good shower and I let the momment pass just being grateful for the support from Sea Pirate and Beno and that we all arived well and good.

The next days was crossing back into Thailand and I part ways with the rest of the gang riding solo to Chaing Rai to rest up before the journey back to Singapore. I made a beeline down stright from Chaing Rai, but with significant stops to rest each day for I know my body fatigue was already too much built up from 10 days riding in China. The gang somehow ride like they were on steroids all reaching Malaysia way earlier than me.

Traveled on : Jun 2023

One day Overlanding Transit Through Laos from Thailand to China

The group roll off time was always early which defers from my usual slow pace sleep in time up to 9am. It was time to ajust to group tour mindset. We reached the border of Thailand at 730am and the border was yet to open so we hang around till 8am and process the exit procedure.

Exit thailand was normal and then it was entering Laos. Group Leader Faz had a Laos guide, that was waiting for us at the border. Group of bikes more than 5 required a guide to facilitate in Laos vehicle entry which was something new to me since the last time I crossed this border with Bluey in 2018 was alone.

Group Bike Entry into Laos - Huay Xai Border 

Imigration at Laos - Huay Xai Border 

Very slow border crossing as usual and we more or less entered Laos late morning and immediately it was a ride immediately to Boten about 200km journey to the border town between Laos and China. The roads were just as I remembered them in 2018, nice road with sudden potholes and many small streches of gravel road. We only had one pit stop at Luang Namtha for some coffee and I lagged behind so much I was the last of the last, even further behind the guide vehicle and beyond sight of the mopeds.

Laos Simply Beautiful View never cease to amaze me

The roads were good .... and then not so good ... Route AH 3 - Huay Xai to Boten

The mopeds was two Honda supercup ex5 callsign Kambing, and one Yamaha NVX which rides two people. By the time i reached Boten, I was so far behind that they had all checked into the hotel and dispersed to do their own thing. I still had no idea whom would be my roomate for the China leg and Boten was a solo room for RMB 120 for the night. Weird town as its still in Laos but totally feels like a subsidary of China.

The newly opened in 2023 Railway Station in Boten
Train Lines from Kunming - China to Vientiane - Laos 

The Border Town of Boten - Laos

Boten was a town I had not been to. I had been to Boten first gate, but did not know there was a town beyond that gate and that the immigatrtaion was beyond that. The town was already as if we were in China without the regulation. Everything was in RMB, the people all speak mandarin with almost no Lao languege. The town no longer had any gambling activities but was full of pubs and open shops with pink lights. The Laos guide told us those were massage shop with a twinkle in his eye.

It was a border town like in the stories but without the filters.

Hotel in Boten

Night Street Food in Boten

Next day we set off early again and exit Laos border and says good bye to the Laos guide which wished us all the best and will await our return after 10 days in China. In a way this crossing is the least understood crossing that I have ever been to since its a first for me with a guide. The guide took our passports and processed all the exit requirement of personnel and vehicle while we just laz around taking photos. An hour later we were good to go and just ride on passing though the gates and exiting Laos

Golden Gate Border at Boten

Just bringing our own Chair to Chill while waiting to Exit Laos Border

200 meters away was China border and our guide for the next 10 days was there waiting with excitement in his face.

Bing would be a good friend to us all during the trip in China for the next 10 Days.

Entering China - Mohan Border 

Traveled on: Jun 2023

Rejected Entry at Chong Mek-Vang Tao Border

My first entry into Laos with Bluey was so easy that I took Laos for granted thinking that at any point in time I could skirt into Laos through any one of the numerous border with Thailand and explore to my hearts content.

The first sign of trouble was in Mukdahan where I impulsively decided to cross the border from Thailand to Laos – Savannahket but with a quick rejection from the Thai side refusing to even let me out of Thailand. 

Thailand - Chong Mek Border 

Laos - Vang Tao Border 

Immigration would not stamp me out and custom will not allow Bluey onto the friendship bridge hence I was turn away before I even had any attempt at the Lao side. According to the Thai immigration officer which I was pleading my case, this border apparently do not allow motorbikes to be ride across the friendship bridge. The only way was for me across the border was to get a good but a little greedy local Samaritan to ferry Bluey by loading the bike up a pick up truck.

The Thai side immigration estimates that a good tip of 1500 baht would be able to attract some good local Samaritan but even with the immigration officer asking on my behalf, the few people with pick up crossing the border turn down the offer almost immediately. I would not have mind paying the money but there was still no guarantee that the Lao side will allow me in with Bluey even with this arrangement.

I asked which border can I used instead of Mukdahan to cross over to Laos with Bluey and the immigration officer was kind enough to make some calls to all the neighboring border. Apparently all the friendship bridge across the Mekong river was touchy and probably end up with a rejection and she suggested the Chong Mek -Vang Tao border with a confirm yes.

A few weeks later I arrived at Chong Mek border.

The Thai side immigration asked me one question which set up a small red flag in my head.

Your motorbike can enter Laos ??

Thinking fast I said yes and proceeded to show him the entry form (always make a copy of the temporary import permit) I made with Bluey a few month back through Chiang Khan – Huay Xai border and he was convince enough to process me and Bluey out of Thailand.

At the Laos side Vang Tao, immigration was pretty simple with only 100 baht fee for passport processing which I paid and then it was customs. I could see the locals processing the TIP form in front of me (all cars from Thailand) but when it was my turn somehow communication was not easy. They made we wait while looking for someone who could speak English and the words that came from her drained all the blood from my face.

Motorbike from Malaysia going to Laos ?

Yes

Alone ?

Yes

We cannot issue permit for single motorbike going into Laos. This border only issue permit for convoy of minimum three bikes.

I pled, beg, pestered but the customs were not interested and I was left standing outside and ignored. The young girl who could speak English suggested that I go to the insurance agency to ask if he could help arrange some manner for me to enter Laos with Bluey.

Thinking I had hope, I left the customs counter to locate the insurance agency but the moment I mention motorbike in my word, the fat old guy gave me the palm and said NO. I was shown the door and ignored completely. Back to customs to plea my case and the girl who could speak English has vanish. My face was known now and trying to beg for the TIP in English came back with continuous strings of explanations in Lao which I had no clue what they were saying other than the end of the sentence which they said NO.

So close, just one more step and I would be like a little boy enjoying candy while I explore the southren part of Laos and the famous four thousand islands.

Back to Laos immigration and I got a stamp out on the same day and turned back to re-enter Thailand.

What do I do now ...

Traveled on: Mar 2019

Border Crossing – Vientiane (Laos) to Nong Khai (Thailand) on a Motorbike

So I decided to cross the border on the 2nd Feb 2019 since Loas was not doing good for my health. Somehow I felt that a change would make me better and running low on money (Laos Currency actually) also means there was not much thing for me to do in Vientiane. 

Thailand - Laos Friendship Bridge I 

Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge I - Laos Side Immigration & Customs 

Morning journey from Vientiane to the border Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge I was a slow ride and somehow I overshoot ending up directly underneath the bridge but not at the immigration. A quick U-turn and I found the correct entry to Immigration and Customs.

It was a bit weird crossing the border. There was so many people, Thai and Laotian alike, maybe it was the weekend and the weekend of a coming lunar new year as well so the queue was massive but I could not find the motorbike queue.

Snaked my way all the way to the front and parked Bluey looking for some information on where to start. The place was like a mess with no rules or guidelines for people trying to cross the border. Everyone seams to know what to do though somehow, and I half contemplated if I should just join in the queue for Immigration Check Out.

I was still worried that I wont be able to cross this bridge with a motorbike and looking at the chaotic border on the Lao side with not a single motorbike in sight other than Bluey made me a little nervous. Well I still had a backup plan to go back to Vientiane and make my way the next day to the next nearest border. That was one of the contingency plan for deciding to cross the border a few days early anyway.

I decided to ask around and saw a custom booth that was not too crowded and seem more like a check point than a processing point. The first officer could not really speak English and passed my inquiry to the second one.

Motorbike ?

Yea I said and after some thoughts he pointed me to a booth on the other end of the border. It looked like to me that was the pedestrian booth where people on buses were queuing to get passport cleared and finally pay some money. I had no idea what the payment is for exactly but if I were to guess, it was payment for exiting Laos. 

Payment for Exit probably ?? 

Anyway its official .... a Resit was given

Payment cost for one person Exiting on Motorcycle : 10000 kip

Back to the customs officer who guided me and he told me to get immigration check out. He then took both the resit for the exit payment and the motorbike Temporary Import Papers (TIP) and left me with nothing.

A long queue for immigration check out and all the while queuing I was keeping an eye on the officer that took my motorbike TIP papers. I now had nothing. No proof that I brought the motorbike in properly and if the officer went puff, I would have a hard time convincing people to let me out of Laos 

Immigration Queue 

Once I was stamped out, I went back to the customs officer .... he double check my papers and said I could go. Weird since I clearly see every other vehicle that line up till the front of the drop bar, hand something to the custom officer for checking before the vehicle was allowed to carry on their journey. 

There was nothing I could do anyway so I took Bluey to the front and the customs officer asked me something which I could not understand. All my document and papers I gave to the officer I told him, pointing towards the man. 

Last Check by Customs before the drop bar lift up and you are good to leave Laos with the Vehicle

The new officer that was the last check before letting me pass out of Laos went around to see Bluey Licence plate.

Malaysia ? He asked

Yes I said and got a wave through and awkwardly the barrier lifted and I was free to move onto the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge I

First was the switch of lanes from Left hand drive to Right hand drive then there was a toll booth for the bridge. Hmm ...no signs for motorbikes so I assumed I would have to pay the same as a car. Nearing the front of the tollbooth and a guard waved me to go through the gaps between the bars. 

Toll prices for That - Laos Friendship Bridge I - Motorbike = Free

So no charge for motorbike to cross the bridge.

Thailand side was straight forward and by now going back the third time into Thailand with Bluey feels little like going home. Thailand was like a second home now for in Thailand I was comfortable knowing where to get things and how the lay of the land works.

Procedure Board for getting a Vehicle into Thailand

Counter 7A was first up getting the Information of Conveyance written up in the TM2 form 

Counter 7A at Nong Khai Immigration

Counter 5A was next getting Immigration Check – In and payed 200 baht for motorbike entry. I assume its motorbike plus immigration processing fee as the officer told me the amount to be paid and gave me change when I had no exact to be given. Seams legit since everyone was asked for the same amount of money 

Counter 5A 

Counter 6A to get the TIP printed and signed 

Counter 6A

Paperwork done I got back to Bluey and entered Nong Khai .. it was a good day to be back in Thailand.
Traveled on: Feb 2019

Playing with the Police in Vientiane and Refusing to Pay a Bribe

Saw the sights in Vientiane and decided to ride around aimlessly but on the way back near to the hostel while turning at the traffic light I was stopped by the traffic police. Vientaine has these traffic police booth posted on major junctions where the police just sits inside and harass people for money. 

Downtown Vientiane 

The guy pulled me over just because I was having a Malaysian Plate number. Gave my licence but he wanted paper. I assume it was the Temporary Import Paper (TIP) for Bluey which I had left it in the hostel. 

No paper ??? the sly grin on his mouth must be my imagination. 

Traffic Police Booth at Major Junction of Vientiane ... - Only manned during daytime work hours 

The traffic police could barely speak English but I understand clearly what was going on.

I kept talking non stop telling him that the paper is in the hostel and the TIP paper is for customs not for traffic stoppage and I don't require to bring it around anyway for just the Malaysian driving licence is sufficient to drive a Malaysian motorbike in Laos. 

Bla bla bla ... I explained to the police that only customs checks the TIP and they (CUSTOMS) told me not required to carry around when riding but when crossing borders will required to surrender it.

I made up all the rules above to my favor really for I had no idea what was the actual requirement.

The guy was not impressed and asked if I could go down to the station to make payment. Aww crap. OK fine I can go to station I said ... where it is it and he blabs on something in Lao but would not show me on the map.

Police: You pay 50,000 kip.

Me: At the station ? But I have the papers which is at the hostel. I can go and get the papers and bring it to the station to show you. Hostel is not far only 5 minute away.

Police: You can pay here ? 50,000 kip ?

Me: You have resit for payment ?

Police: No.

Me: I go back to hostel and take the TIP paper and come back here to show you OK? You can hold onto my driving licence (Malaysia Driver Licence) and I will come back with papers in 5 minutes OK ?

Ok the police said and proceeded to keep my licence under the table and made some sign that I would need to bring the TIP papers back and show it to him to redeem my licence

As I put on my helmet and fire up Bluey, the traffic police walked up to me and handed me back my licence and waved me off. This time it was me having the sly grin but I put on my most grateful and dumb face and wave him goodbye while I dash off to continue on my random riding exploration.

A few turns downtown just moments later, and again I was called aside from another traffic police booth with the same story. Same routine, and the police asked for papers which I spun the same story again getting better with practice.

Police: You pay 50,000 Kip ?

Me: You have resit for payment ?

I proceeded to show him the hostel location which was just within walking distance now and forced the idea on him that I will go and take the papers and come back to show him while he kept my driving licence.

Same feint as he kept the licence on the table and wave me off but as I fired up Bluey again the licence was returned and this time I made a beeline for the hostel to get the papers before going back out Vientiane riding.

Is it corruption ? Or is it a real thing that I required to have papers while riding a Malaysia bike in Laos? One thing was clear thou, if I had paid the first traffic police 50,000 kip, I would not have any proof of it and I will continue to fall into a pithole paying every traffic police that decided to stop me in Vientiane.

My traveler experience told me that sometimes you have to be the ignorant/rude traveler and that was what I became forcing my ideals onto the Lao traffic police when I had no idea what was the norm or the rule in this country. 

Some may think I am laughing, managing to escape bribing the police and getting out of a situation without much hassle but in the back of my mind I could not help wondering if I was really in the wrong and did I just abuse someone intellectually to get things my way.

On second thought I do wonder, if I had stolen a bike and they asked me to produce papers (This is the main purpose of the papers, ownership rights and legally imported) all I had to do was pay 50,000 kip and no proof of papers will be required.

Either way ... everything is flawed ... 

Vientiane 

World Peace Gong - Vientiane 

Traveled on: Jan 2019

The Torture ride from Vang Vieng to Vientiane

Woke up 4am in the morning in the hostel at Vang Vieng with diarrhea and constant walk to the toilet bowl to piss using my anus and repeat every 10 minutes. It could have been the medicine, the food, the mango juice that i seam to crave during sickness since it was the only thing easy to down my throat.

By morning I had not much fluids left to contribute to the toilet bowl. Breakfast was limited to hard mango and banana. No fluids for any drop of water i took send me to the toilet a few minutes later.

I decided to leave Vang Vieng. This place is not helping me get better and after 5 night i was pretty sure the bed i occupied was fully infested. Keeping my self dehyrated and hoping i wont shit my pants while trying to ride to Vientiane, i packed up and headed out.

Throughout the ride from Vang Vieng to Vientiane, it was roughly 150km but this time i did no detours, no lazing stops beyond the occasional stretch of the legs. Somehow my butt hole has a mind of its own so no playing around other than riding to the next hostel. 

Luckily my bowels decided to have mercy on me and the few times i saw a big clean petrol station with great toilet, that was the time my diarrhea kicks in. I think i made like 3 stops to the toilet along the way pissing though my butt hole and throughout the 5 hours journey drank no water and ate no food. 

On the way from Vang Vieng to Vientiane 

I could not afford to risk it. It was slightly dangerous I knew, since dehydration was bad for concentration during a ride. Once i reached the hostel in Vientiane, checked in and establish the route to the toilet, I started gulping water.

I now stop flu meds and even paracetamol meds. Instead i took bascopan for the bowels relaxation and hopefully i should recover by tomorrow else this will go way beyond two weeks and that's not a good sign being sick. 

Cosy City of Vientiane 

Traveled on : Jan 2019

When you are sick during travels – Kasi Hotsprings & Vang Vieng

Sufferings after sufferings. This time the travels are not as smooth as my previous rodeo and it seams every month something pops up to somehow takeover the course of the trip. 

As fun as camping and campfire drinking was in Phou Khon I seamed to have caught some kind of virus from sharing the lao lao drinking rounds with one mini shotglass. I reached Kasi hotsprings and decided to stay the night even though it was 100000 kips per night feeling a little tired and mussle sore.

I thought at first maybe it was due to the camping, you know sleeping on the ground is a strain to my old body nowadays but after a dip into the hotsprings i knew i was comming down with something. The next day i traveled on to Vang Vieng a short ride away and checked in the hostel and i was in shivers. Fever was coming next ... i could tell a cold was forming 

Kasi Hotsprings 

I ended up staying in Vang Vieng for 5 nights doing abselutely nothing popping paracetamol everyday and drinking fluids. In between on the 3rd day i thought i was getting better and decided to at least to see one of the lagoons. A short ride on Bluey under the sun and i could tell my body is not going to hold up. Tried to hike up to see a cave ... gave up less than 50m into the climb.

The biggest mistake i think was jumping into the cold waters of the lagoon. It was so temping with the sun out warm and then into the water cool and refreshing and who could resisit just lazing around being baked by the sun and cooled down at the butts while floating on the rubber tube. That night my fever return two fold and the next day all sense of taste vanish. 

Blue Lagoon in Vang Vieng

I could not really taste anything now and i dont feel hungry but body signals told me to eat for i was getting week and all joints were painful. I up the paracetamol dose to double ... 1000mg and shivered throughout the night. I needed something more ... something for the cold and pharmacy self bought flu tabs for the last night and all was good for a while, till i went to sleep.

Vang Vieng By the River

Vang Vieng Heavy Vehicle Bridge Crossing 

Riding the Countryside of Vang Vieng 

Traveled on : Jan 2019

Camping at Phou Khoun Strawberry Farm

Camping at Phou Khoun was a lucky find. No information on the internet other than on google maps. Zooming in and following the winding road researching for my journey from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng thinking of how to break the journey led me to this small little town Phou Khoun which has a camping site at a small little strawberry farm with amazing views of the mountainous Laos. 

The beginning of the ride up to Phou Khoun

It was a 100 km ride from Luang Prabang slowly climbing the hills with medium road conditions, the usual pothole here and there and some gravel of short stretches but easy enaugh ride since I had time so by 3pm, 6 hours riding later i was at the farm, asking for a tent and just admiring the view. 

Going up and up ... 

The Road from Luang Prabang to Phou Khoun

Slowly but surely - High up in the mountains of Laos 

Tent cost 50000kip per night and they had squat toilets with hot water for showers. Local family run place with simple menu for every meal plus beer Lao when ever one needed, it was a place to relax. Tent was great as well with mattress, thick plenty of blankets and pillows. Weather was cold, but not too extreme that with a jacket it was lovely just to chill and laze around watching the clouds and mountains during the day and by nightfall, the owners lights up a campfire where we all huddle to say hello. 

The dirt road riding towards the campsite 

Phou Khun Strawberry Farm - Parked for the night

I knew there was trouble and fun the moment the owner Sai brought out a bottle which looked like the Laotian Lao Lao whisky. Hard to say no and so the night begin. 

Sai was a military man serving the army during 1993 to 1997 which was how he came to know about this place and later set it up. He spoke simple english and at the age of 63 i could see the wisdom in the eyes. Not much conversation out of him but every word was spoken slowly with deep thoughts.

Dan and Mo was the most interesting couple. Dan from Australia 35 years and his wife Mo 29 years laotian. Dan could even speak laotian. I find it beautiful and Mo kept most of the conversation going speaking in both Laotian and English with the bottle of Lao Lao whishky at hand mischievously pouring shots and never letting anyone out of the fun.

One of the local girl came and join and Mo and her giggled all night talking about something which seams to involved Dan. I could barely follow the conversation but it was all fun and drink around a campfire. 

Just watching the mountains from afar .... Phou Khoun

Mini Map of Phou Khoun

The Strawberry farm - Phou Khoun

Just Chilling away - Phou Khoun

The stars were bright and the place was cosy with great vibe. Not a party type vibe although we were drinking lao lao whisky the lao way ... sharing one bottle with one shot glass going in turns in circles. Once the whisky was finish, Sai brought out his home made strawberry wine, and once that was finish Mo started buying beer followed by me buying beer ... all shared from one shot glass going round and round until someone surrendered and then there was 4, then there was 3 and 2 and it was time to sleep ... barely 10pm.

In the morning before I left Dan remembered a place and told me to visit the hotsprings in Kasi on the way down .... i ended up staying at the hot-spring albeit a bit expensive at 100000 kips a night but then this is Laos, slow and relax was the way to go.

Traveled on: Jan 2019