A Daytrip Detour into Doi Mae Salong

I took the detour going into Doi Mae Salong from Thaton to Chiang Sean. It was a nice ride and very scenic but at the same time at the back of my mind I was constantly worried if I would meet an obstacle challenge like those previously in Doi Angkang along the way. 

Road to Doi Mae Salong 

Doi Mae Salong while calming and peaceful did not capture me to stay the night. The lodgings were expensive, no hostel in sight and furthermore I had limited days now in Thailand. A day trip ride through would have to suffice but I was still glad I did the detour to have a look. 

The roads up were good tarmac, winding steeply and without pause and Bluey and I rode up and up in amazing time with my ears popping every few seconds while the view transformed into lush valleys and mountains backdrop. 

Doi Mae Salong

Tea House at Doi Mae Salong

Climate was cold, as cold as Doi Angkang or Doi Inthanon but while the other two national parks had barely any village to explore, Doi Mae Salong was a huge community (relatively speaking) with markets, rows of house built all along the main road and then more than some dotting the mountainside. 

Doi Mae Salong Town

Street Vendors - Doi Mae Salong 

In south east asia terms, Doi Mae Salong was like Cameron Highlands in Peninsular Malaysia, or Kudasang in Sabah, or Dalat in Vietnam. I would not compared it to the Mae Hong Son Loop for it had a different type of vibe. While Mae Hong Son loop had a feel of a small big city, Doi Mae Salong felt like a big community on highland living and farming yet not a large enough to feel like a city. 

Orange Colored Buildings - Doi Mae Salong 

Doi Mae Salong Community - Houses & Shop dotting the Mountain side 

Doi Mae Salong Park 

Beautiful View - Doi Mae Salong 

They even had a tea plantation in Doi Mae Salong which really reminded me of Cameron Highlands.

If only I had more time really, I would stay in Doi Mae Salong to chill and kick back some hot tea every day writing and watch the clouds roll by. 

Tea Plantation at Doi Mae Salong 

Tea Plantation at Doi Mae Salong 

Tea Plantation at Doi Mae Salong 

The beautiful countryside of Doi Mae Salong

Traveled on: Jan 2019

Bad Things Comes in Threes – Doi Angkang One Crazy Riding Adventure

Doi Angkang. I knew it was going to be a great day setting out riding on new years eve aiming for Doi Angkang. The idea was to stay the night up in the mountains, the third tallest peak in Thailand and camp among the clouds even if I have to somehow endure the shivering cold in a tent, it was something I was determined to do. The idea of waking up on new years day in the mountain was too good to pass on but alas plans don't always work out as one dreams.

The Beginning of what I thought would be an easy ride for the day ... 

The ride was suppose to be easy. Only 86 km from Chinag Dao and the first 50km of the road was pretty easy, flat and serene passing by little huts shelter and farm land. After the turn at Arunothai village which somehow, I could not find a place to stop for lunch hence riding on and the roads begin to go through forestry zig zagging steep uphill and downhill. The climb up was difficult but still within good control.

Not Much Room to Stop for a Break Riding up Doi Angkang

Bluey went up slowly but surely and with every steep climb I was down to first gear with full control knowing that Bluey will make it ok. I guess the initial confident makes me a little blind onward into the journey. Downhill was difficult too, stressing the brakes and with little to no side-path for a safe stop, I carried on.

I stop for lunch at the first little village I saw once I was out of the mountain pass. I thought the worst was over. If the whole stretch was going to be like the one I just navigated, it wont be so bad. I only left 20km anyway to my destination of Doi Angkang camping grounds and at 1pm with plenty of time to spare I was not at all concern.

After lunch I continue on tackling on some seriously beautiful and challenging roads. Roads were narrow and roads were not in the best conditions with cracks and holes in them. Still it was better than gravel or dirt road. It was more like just an old road that had not seen any care for a while other than the vehicles running it.

Small Town along the Mountain Road to Doi Angkang

I saw the super steep and super long climb from far away. In my mind I knew this was going to be hard. If I could keep the movement at first gear, I thought no matter how slow Bluey goes, so long as I keep calm and control the first gear that I would eventually reach the top of this steep obstacle.

I thought wrong, and midway through the climb Bluey could go no further even at first gear. I executed the perfect stop, full brakes and clutch in at first gear. I was stationary in the middle of the climb with my left leg down for balance. It was so steep that there was no way for me to do anything other than to freeze there.

Trying to release the back brakes cause a slight movement backwards. Trying to move forward with the loudest scream on first gear cause an immediate choke the moment the clutch slightly kicks in. I could not do anything and the more I tried the more I lost control. With my right leg securely on the back brakes since front brake was insufficient to hold the bike in place, I had to try to move it upwards or sideways to make a u-turn back downhill.

Throttle-engage clutch and try to move, and for a moment I was moving slower than a baby crawl but Bluey was screaming like he was set on fire. One slight finesse mistake on the clutch and the engine went dead, choked to death.

HELP HELP >>>> BLUEY's Down !!!

Now I was on a slope with trucks and bikes passing me but I was sitting duck. Trying to restart Bluey I lost balance and tilted the bike to the right side and a fall was inevitable. Left my bike laying there while I wonder how am I going to go to Doi Angkang. Backtracking the way I came seams like a bad idea since I now remembered the numerous steeper downhill I had to go through to even get this far.

Standard procedure kicks in and I offloaded Bluey taking out the luggage and the cargo box and waited for some kind soul to help me pick up the bike. Standing there it felt unnatural like you had to lean your whole body weight sideways just to stand without feeling a pull downhill.

Unload all the dead weight for another try ^^

A lot of locals on motorbikes with pillion wanted to help and some slowed down only to realized their own mistakes. Luckily their pillion could jump down and immediately help push their bike up hill while the rider screamed the engine all the way to the max.

Two boys stopped and after somehow stabilizing their bike on the slope they came to help me. One of them had the confident to bring it up for me to the top of the hill. I really needed the help and my idea was to have two of us push the bike up while one person ride it screaming the engine in first gear. Still communication barrier was evident with my basic Thai so I had to leave Bluey in their experimental hands.

Lifting Bluey up took 3 of us and then it took all three of us to turn Bluey around, now facing back the way I came, downhill. One of the boys prepared to take Bluey back downhill preparing to restart the climb. The other guy and me took all the luggage walking up hill.

We saw the boy making a long head start speeding to the maximum trying to climb this super steep obstacle hill only to fail at the exact same spot I had crashed. He however had the idea and luck of no oncoming vehicle to turn Bluey around before it was too late, avoiding becoming stuck like a sitting duck(me). So back down hill again and try and try again.

I figured he would be alright since once we got all the stuff at the top of the hill, if needed we could go back down and push the bike up. But as we headed down he came up blaring the engine with two feet paddling the ground running. He barely made it to the top and luckily too for that last stunt would have ended badly if the leg assisted powered Bluey were to stop dead. For two legs on the ground means no back brakes.

The Two Local Boys which Stopped to Help me Bring Bluey up the Steep Slope

I thank them .... I could not be more grateful and while they offered to ride Bluey all the way to Doi Angkang while I become pillion on their bike, I felt it was not right and that I have to see this through.

First real Break after the Fall

The last 20km to Doi Angkang was filled with crazy imaginary thoughts in my head. What if there was another impasse like the one before. I would be stuck between many obstacle never ever to get off this mountain. Many times after, I had to climb in first gear and I was starting to think that while climbing mountains was one of the most exhilarating and challenging thing to do, it was also a very huge risk every time I head to a mountain which has very little people travelling. Luckily it was new year eve and somehow there was so many local tourist headed to Doi Angkang.

Beautiful Scenery Ride up to Doi Angkang

The Vast Landscape of Mountains & Valleys on the way to Doi Angkang

When I finally reached the camp grounds marked on google map, the place was not a camp ground. Searching other parts of Doi Angkang I found the alleged campground with standard tent rental at 225 baht. There was no more tent for rent ... all rented out and the camp ground was so damn packed with people I wondered how was this even possible or even considered camping since it looked like a hundred people or more was there. I did not even wanted to imagine how bad the single toilet in the campground would be like.

Campsite is overcrowded on New Year's Eve - Doi Angkang

Mass Campsite in Doi Angkang due to New Year's Eve 

Strike 2 ... and at this point I was thinking when will the strike 3 comes because I know that jinks happens in threes.

3pm

A decision to make but it was really a no brainier since I had no place to stay in Doi Angkang so I had to go downhill or risk freezing to death at night. Whipped out my phone to book a place at Thaton which was 50km away. Doable I thought trying to reassure myself. Google navigation said it would only take 1 hour.

The road up was not the same as the road down. I choose to go forward so I had no idea how the road was like going downhill. Riding around the top of Doi Angkang it was ok but at the beginning of the downhill was a village and the roads were blocked by police. Seamed like they had a restriction on when the road could be used. Close by 6pm it said so I just drove through the gaps since no one really stopped me.

Immediately after the roadblock was the downhill, and I was greeted by dirt road. Oh f*cking gravel.

Gravel Road Downhill with poor visibility due to Clouds in the sky 

I was immediately reminded of the gravel ride in Cambodia from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong and I knew this was going to be a very hard downhill. Halfway through downhill I knew there was no turning back because the downhill ride was as steep as the initial uphill previously that I fell. There was only one way out of this and that was downhill. Brakes were precious and every chance I get I release the brakes to get some rest, least I overheat the pads and all was good even with every little slide giving my heart a skip, I was somehow still in control.

The gravel road with many pot holes means at times I brake and skidded but it was those minor skids, less than a second and with a release of the brakes, the wheel turn and I regain control. Cambodia dirt road experience was helping me with this downhill.

The final stretch and I saw the last 100m of dirt road but there was a fork and I wondered which way was I suppose to go. Super focus and concentration forgotten for a while, while I ponder on directions instead on the downhill ride was all it took.

I realized too late I was going the wrong way and tried to turn right instead which somehow succeeded but was in the wrong gear and trying to kick into the right gear while going downhill cause my front wheel to skid and this time I fall right side. It was slow enough that I saw it coming and I could react fast enough to get my legs out of the way side stepping while the bike went down sideways but the slope was so steep I was facing forward and I did a full 360 somersault rolling like a ball with my body. I was lucky that was all and did not roll uncontrollably all the way down.

Second fall in the same day coming downhill from Doi Angkang

Unload Bluey and wait for passerby for help

Three times today ,,,, somehow I felt relieve. The jinks had run its course and I had survived with minimal damage. Bluey still runs, I had a small scratch on my knees through the jeans although the jeans did not rip, and my right wrist got a minor sprain but still good enough to function fully.

Standard works again and I unloaded Bluey of all the luggage and waited for help. One guy with his wife passed and he had to go all the way downhill to park the bike before walking back up to help me.

Together we lifted Bluey on that slope and luckily Bluey was sideways. While he carefully hold Bluey, I went around the bike to kick it into neutral then with sign language, he took the front while I took the back and we slowly walked Bluey downhill. It was a short walk of 100m but our feet were slipping on the ground and many times I wondered how we did not slide and fell again on that slope.

Local To the Rescue ... 

I remember once saying this to another traveler. You want something to happen for if nothing happen the travel can be monotonous after a while, but while you wish for an adventure with exciting stories, you also wish that it is just the right amount, enough to feel alive but not too much that it causes permanent damage.

Riding through orchards towards Thaton

Traveled on : Dec 2018
#doiangkang #accidentonaroadtrip #roadtripproblems 

Sometimes When You Least Expect It In a Place, It Will Supprise You – Chiang Dao

The day started with breakfast. I had no idea that the hostel came with free breakfast and it was a bonus on a rainy morning. Stephan and me only had a few things to see in Chiang Dao and he would leave at the end of the day for Chaing Mai while I stay another night hence the final split of the initial group in Mae Sariang. Has it been more than a week? wow ...  

Free Breakfast ... the little things but when coupled with a chain of little things a place can be so much more than just a passing town. Laundry was next and with rainy weather in the morning I had no idea if laundry was even possible to do. Laundry was 50 baht (dirt cheap) and I did not even have to do it myself. Just left it at the counter and collected it by the end of the day, full service laundry. The little things. 

Chiang Dao Hostel 

First stop was the hot springs. It was funny because I was contemplating going in or just seeing it since all the online guides said it was 100 baht and even google maps says it's a private hot springs but when we got there just by the river, it was free. Simple but free and I decided to jump in even when I was unprepared or even if Stephan says he had no time and had to move, I would stay and jump in the hot springs. HOT SPRINGS ....... ^^

Chiang Dao River Hot Springs 

Stephen decided to join in the hot springs and it was best just sitting inside those cement ring pools with piped in hot springs water by the cold flowing river. It was the perfect morning, cold and with the rain starting to give way to the sun, a hot spring in a private tub outside in the open by the cold river, nothing like relaxing after a long long ride through Mae Hong Son loop. 

Ahhh .... Bliss - Chiang Dao Hots Springs By the River 

By the time hot springs was done it was already lunch time. Towards Chiang Dao Cave which at first I thought it was just one of those many cave in Thailand. It was a very large and complex cave maze which took nearly 2 hours just to explore the basic parts.

Chiang Dao Cave was very touristy but surprisingly local tourist and we almost did not see any foreign tourist around. The entrance was 40 baht which was clearly indicated for maintaining the lights in the caves. One way to know that the place was not tailored for foreign tourist is the price are the same regardless of Thai nationality or Foreign Nationality. 

Chiang Dao Cave Temple 

Entrance to Chiang Dao Cave 

40 baht and we went in and by the first enclave we were greeting by local guides. The guides barely speaks English but they had all the important signs and instructions translated into English. Chiang Dao cave is categorized into three segments, one which requires a guide and a gas lamp for light and the other which is fully lighted up with bulbs which can be self explored with the many many local tourist that feels like a conveyor belt and lastly the deep exploration of caves which requires a guide and a permit as well. 

Chiang Dao Cave 

Chiang Dao Cave 

Chiang Dao Cave 

The lamp cost 200 baht and could be shared as a group regardless of size. So Stephan and me split the cost to 100 baht each. The guide worked on a tip basis but they have the sign to suggest a recommended tipping amount for the guide. 200 baht for the tour tip was the recommended amount regardless of how large the group was.

The darker parts of Chaing Dao cave runs 700+ meters through large and very narrow passage which we had to navigate and crawl to get from one cavern to another. Halfway in and looking backwards I realized that there were so many branches leading to other caves segments that without a guide we would probably be lost and in trouble. Then again the large amount of local tourism means that not 10 feet away was another group with a guide and the same with a group behind us. 

Chiang Dao Caves 

Chiang Dao Caves 

Chiang Dao Caves 

Warning signs of DANGEROUS and no exploration without guides were placed where the caves tunnels forked and seamed to dive endlessly into the abyss yet mysteriously calls to a few visitors which seams to have a glint in their eyes to want to explore further. Nevertheless it was the end of  the permitted part of Chiang Dao Cave. 

Last stop was viewpoint but what we did not know was the viewpoint was located in a wildlife sanctuary which required payment for entry. 230 baht per person and we decided to skip it. It was fun travelling with company for a while after a long time travelling alone. 

Traveled on: Dec 2018
#watthamchiangdao

Pai, the Backpacker’s Heaven

So continuing from the last post,I was dead set on staying in Pai for two nights and as much as I wanted to keep moving, riding every day and not seeing things was eating my soul inside and Pai was one of those places where there was so much to do. 

I AM PAI 

Two night in Pai. The day was spend going around the town, visiting places like the Pai Land split, Pai Canyon, Eleplant Camp, memorial bridge, temples, sunset, night market, massage and just enjoying Pai. I can understand the allure of Pai to the Falangs. They stay here for a month singing praise of Pai and it's because Pai is the perfect blend made for a backpacker’s long stays. 

Its a relaxing town, cheap with all the needs of a westerners and yet blended in with local’s touch that makes Pai so attractive. I would say to all the travel haters out there that spit nonsense of a town ruin by foreigners trying to prevent more tourism from going to Pai by mindf*cking them into boycotting visiting Pai, they will never win for Pai does not need any promotion initially, and if a word of mouth can make this small little northern village a falang heaven then it is definitely here to stay as a hot tourist spot.

I could easily stay here for a week or a month ... but maybe not in a hostel where young hyper western backpackers roam the area drinking and partying nearly everyday. A small cottage in a family guesthouse would be the best for a long stay in Pai in my view. 

Pai is Falling in Love ^^

Two nights were really short but alas I had not much time left before the visa run out and Bluey needed to get out of Thailand into Laos. By now I have come to understand Thailand a little bit better, there are the main tourism spots where hoards of travelers and tourist go through and spots like Pai where the more dedicated travelers pass by, yet still a fair number of them and then there is these places close to the hot-spots that is almost untouched, preserved in pristine local experience by the lack of tour operators or public transportation.

This is when having one own wheels makes the journey and exploration so much enriching.

Anyway, the few things to do in Pai 

( and by this I mean IN Pai and not the surrounding vicinity which would be too much to count )

1. Land Split
(Entrance Fee – FREE, just drop any courtesy amount into the Tips box for the free drinks and snacks provided) 

The Landsplit - Pai

The Landsplit - Pai 

Welcome to the Land Split. 

(Narrative below taken from the Guidepost at the entrance to the land split)

The land spilt is a geological feature caused by seismic activity, an earthquake in 2008. The severe separations in the ground can be seen on the hillside 100m from here. Meanwhile, here at the Landsplit we serve our visitors a country variety of fruits and drinks that are grown and produce right here on our land. Our papaya, sweet potato, banana, tamarind and rosell a hibiscus are raised the traditional way which is free from any chemical fertilizer or pesticide. We kindly encourage you to take time exploring the mystery of our land then enjoy the taste of our country treats and hospitality. 

Tip Base Tourism - The Land Split - Pai

2. Pai Canyon (Entrance- FREE)

Its hard to capture the captivating beauty of Pai Canyon as there was no way to include a good photo. The walk on the ridge of the little Pay Canyon is quite a sight although albeit small in size. 

Pai Canyon ... Free Attraction hence no safety rails ... Safety is your own responsibility  

3. Elephant Camp

There is a lot of mixed feeling on elephant camp when I talk to other tourist. Some might say animal cruelty since the elephant is tied to a barn and ride an elephant to the river is sold as a tourist attraction but when talking to the local, owning an elephant is like owning a farm animal to them no different than a cow or a sheep. 

Elephant Riding - Pai 

Apparently only the young strong elephant is used for tourist riding since they have the back strenght and the older ones are used for farming, clearing logs, pulling things that are too heavy for a normal person. There is a long history in Thailand of elephants being cultivated by civilization and when observing the Mahout attending to their elephant it was like a bond between a warhorse and a soldier. 

Elephant Camp - Pai 

4. Pai Memorial Bridge

The old memorial bridge is actually a new bridge at the same site. During WWII the Japanese constructed the bridge for their supply chain line but was later destroyed by flood. The village people of Pai grew accustom to having a bridge after WWII hence when the bridge was destroyed by flood it was replaced by an Iron bridge. 

Pai Memorial Bridge 

5. Chedi Phra That Mae Yen Temple

The white Buddha temple on a little hill mount at the edge of Pai is a beautiful place where locals and tourist alike visit especially during sunset to see the natural light-show as the sun goes down behind the mountains. 

Chedi Phra That Mae Yen Temple - Pai (Or as the tourist call it, the white Buddha)  

Sunset behind the mountain overlooking Pai 

6. Tourist Night Market 

This very large and long night market is the best place to get food. Walk walk walk .... buy some food and snack eat along the way.

Night Market - Pai 

Night Market - Pai 

Night Market - Pai 

Night Market - Pai 

Traveled on : Dec 2018
#Pai #painightmarket #iampai #paicanyon #pailandsplit #paimemorialbridge