Saturday, 11 November 2023

Riding from Kunming to Lijiang with DETOUR to Dali

Starting off early in the day, Captain gave the coordinates for the pit stop in Dali. The plan was to reach Dali for lunch, take a photo of the Grand South Gate then head off to Li Jiang for the night. Naturally the small bike gang spilt off from the big bikes and with us Bing, Drive-China tour guide.

Grand South Gate at Dali Ancient City

Bing brought us on a new highway a shorter and lesser traffic road which was still not on google maps. I doubt it will ever be on google map since they have stopped updating for a while now. Local nagivation in China uses AMAP but one must know how to read in chinese so almost useless to us without the guide. Naturally the big bike ahead of us not knowing this info went on the old main highway still on google map.

The Moped Gang 

At the first rest area where we stop for water break and toilet break, I could see a bunch of police setting up booth and banners. Going back to the bike from the main building, I was flanked by the police like a sheep slowly herded into the pen.

They cornered me slowly and a friendly face with a bag of brochures started rattling off the campaign they were organizing at this rest stop. I could not get any word in for a good 20 seconds and when I finally do .. it was ... I do not speak chinese very well.

Highway Rest Stop between Kunming & Dali 

I think that was a wrong answer ... as the guys face light up smiling even more widely happy that he had caught a foreigner which was a rare species. Simple plesentries was exchange and the police now know we were from Malaysia riding towards Dali and all these while my photo was being taken by some photographer for their campaign.

Their campaign was, safe driving/riding campaign for the month .... “internal facepalm” .... so I was slowly brief in mandarin, mimed carefully so I could understand that the speed limit was 80 for bike, or maybe it was it is safer to ride at 80km/hr for bikes at the right most lane. 

I held myself back from asking about the speed limit sign of 120km/hr which I saw along the way ... nodded my head like a good citizen or tourist. Listen on while he told me to turn sideways and smile for the camera while internally panicking on how to run away from this awkward situation.

Road Safety Campaign at Highway Rest Stop 

Then came the question, do I have a pillon riding with me? No ... I do not have a pillion riding with me was my answer and immediately choose that time to excuse myself speaking faster with my most fluent mandarin that we need to go to reach Dali and Li Jiang before nightfall. I did not give the officer time to ask another question, fearing if we had broke any law without knowing. Best to leave while still having the mindset that we were all good.

We tried to make a quick dash to Dali, but small bike are still small bike; so after many petrol and rest stops, we reached Dali around 2pm. The big bikes had all already arrived, ordered and finished their lunch. So we had ours ... and with me an Bing doing translation it was more interactive with the local halal restaurant owner. They asked us so many question that they could not ask the big bike group, since all they could do was point at the picture and ask for the food.

Lunch at Dali Ancient City

Finished lunch late afternoon and the gang asked if there was a prayer room they could borrow at the restaurant. The lady explained that they could go to the mosque down the street. Another bonus of travelling with Bing and me was, we could translate ... so the big boys missed out going to a ancient mosque at the ancient city of Dali to do their prayers.

Our gang decided it was worth arriving Li Jiang late for the experience. The three mopeds went into Dali ancient city with me and Bing to find the mosque and once there I headed out to explore Dali for an hour while Bing stayed by the bikes to make some work calls.

Entrance to Mosque inside Dali Ancient City

Old Mosque inside Dali Ancient City

It was the most fruitful detour in the trip that I could attune with.

I had a glimpse of Dali Ancient city and it was beautiful despite the fact that all the old building has been modernized to take in the mass hoard of local tourist flocking the city everywhere.

The Red Dragon Well of Dali 

Local Tourist Dressing up in Ethnic Costume with Photographer

So many Tea House Shop in Dali Ancient City

Stream passing through Dali Ancient City

More Local Tourist with Dali monuments 

Tourist tourist everywhere is not an exaggeration espescially when all the tourist are 90% from China. Souviner shops is lined up everywhere and professional photographers and make up artist line the streets to make the tourist beautifual like a minority tribe in China for photoshoot. A little taste, for now I know what to expect when exploring China in future.

Traveled on: Jun 2023


Tuesday, 24 October 2023

Ride from Jinghong to Kunming but never seeing Kunming

What can I say about day two, it was a boring day. While we woke up early ... we were stuck in Jinghong a long time in the morning while we went to the mobile center to get everyone their sim cards to be connected back to the internet and the world.

Thereafter it was lunch. Internet set with all the gps navigation working and a full belly, we started our journey nearly 2pm to our destination of Kunming. One of the longest ride to reach as well around 600km and the big bikes left us small mopeds in the dust.

Lunch at Jinghong Muslim Restaurant

Bing had a vstrom suzuki 250cc bike and together with the two kambing and one nvx the 5 smaller bikes made our way to Kunming. Through rain and shine and slightly colder weather, we really pushed ourself and the bike.

By 5pm we were all tired riding long duration and I suggested we do a long push else we would reach very very late in the early morning to Kunming. 150Km without stopping for rest. Usually it was 60 to 80km for me and after talking to the rest of the small bikers gang, they too agree their pace was around 60 to 80km per stop.

Still we decided to do a long run to gain time ... and a long run of 150km we did with sore butts, legs and hands. Even had to use redbull and sneakers bar for energy and sustenance .... within two long run we made up some time and still we reached Kunming at 11pm late night.

Redbull Power Up for the ride from Jinghong to Kunmming

The hotel was at the outskirts of Kunming so we did not really get to see downtown Kunming. Everyone flop into their room to cook and I went out alone walking nearly 2km away to reach a food place. Wheat noodle for dinner/supper .... and back to the hotel nearly 1am for a short sleep before waking up again 6am in the morning for the next run to Li Jiang.

Stir Fried Wheet Noodle supper at Kunmming 

Traveled on : Jun 2023

Thursday, 19 October 2023

Route Info – Boten (Laos) to Daocheng Yading (China) loop

I belive one day this would be a super popular route for most south east asian countries when China finally opens the borders for free land crossing. Still its a long way to go and I was not going to wait so hence we did it with a guide.

Now much of Google Maps in China is actually outdated hence most of the roads we took were not on the map at all. The China AMAP is a good detailed map. Unfortunately only available in local languege and no other.

The loop as I try to plot on google map below looks more like a stright line instead of a loop but then again we did use different roads to go and back albeit a little parelel.

Boten - Laos to Daocheng Yading - China Loop via motorbike

Day 1 – Cross Border into Mohan and ride to Mengla Police Station for registration of bikers then onwards to Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture Jinghong for the first night.

Day 2 – Jinghong to Kunming by passing Puer. Stayed at Kunming for the 2nd night

Day 3 – Kunming with stops at Dali for a few hours and onwards to Lijiang for the 3rd night

Day 4 – Lijiang towards Yulong Snow Mountain scenic stop then onwards to Tiger Leaping Gorge scenic stop and onwards via the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge scenic road to Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Shangrila. Overnight at Shangrila

Day 5 – Shangrila via unmarked road some shortcut through the mountains that the guide says lets not do that again until they repair the roads and we reached Daocheng County Yading

Day 6 – Rest Day ... spend the day around Yading

Day 7 – Yading via S216, S217, G214 going a longer way up north to turn back south towards Hutiaoxia town. Spend the night a Hutiaoxia

Day 8 – Hutiaoxia via Nanjian to visit the Tulin Wuliang Soil Forest scenic area then towards Zhenyuan for the night

Day 9 – Zhenyuan stopping at Puer for lunch and ending at Mengla for the night

Day 10 – Border Crossing from Mengla to Laos Boten





Monday, 16 October 2023

Border Crossing Into China from Laos with Malaysian Motorbike - Laos - Boten to China - Mohan

Unlike all my previous posting on how to go about crossing small land borders which are usually an insight of the things I need to research and stumble along the way to actually successfully or sometimes being rejected from crossing the border, this border crossing has almost non of that. 

Main reason was due to having Guides ... the guide did all the work, prepared all the nescessary paperwork and ushered us safely through all the nitty gritty. With that, I have almost no knowledge of how to cross the Laos - China Border independently with a motorcycle. Still base on my research, there is no other way into China with a foreign vehicle unless you engage a guide, so not much is lost. 

Mohan Border Crossing into China

Strolling up to the Immigration counter laughing and joking around with some of us shouting for the last man behind to hurry up was met with hostility at the China side, we Malaysian were too loud and loitering around everywhere like scattered sheep. The officers were not pleased and immediately send us back to the gate forcing our poor China Guide Bing to succumb to apologies and with some polite talking to calm down the officers. Line up orderly, follow procedure and keep quiet before they even decide to process the first person.

Some were not pleased with the highhanded treatment we were dealt with but I guess this is actually a norm for crossing borders. We Malaysian just had two very friendly borders that skewed our perception a bit from my point of view. Either way lucky thing was all our conversation and displesure was done in the secret languege of Malaysian !! handy to have when travelling abroad. I tried my best to calm our group down as well, explaining that small border crossing is like this unlike airport.

Follow instruction or risk the wrath and games of the immigration officers. Talking in languege that the officer do not understand does not mean he do not understand, body languege tells a thousand times more than words and they are train to read body languege more and beyond words. Sometimes even talking in languge they do not understand will irked them to assume the worst and hence make life dificult.

Going Through Customs Weigh-In - Mohan Port China

With everything explained from China Immigration officer to Bing and Bing to the group we were back in queue and processed into China slowly one by one. Next was customs and we riders went back to the bikes to ride through. Customs was easy enaugh supprisingly with orderly queue up the weighing machine and scanners and before we knew it we were in China.

Then we were hanging around the border .... lunch .... finding the only halal restaurant in the border town and all was good. Thats when Bing told us we had not cleared customs yet. We had only cleared the first part of customs weight in but not the inspection and not the documentation that he needed to get.

After lunch Bing said we were good to go. No need to go back to customs and the documentation is ok with his partner which will be send to him once the customs process it. It sounded like even strict China had ways like Malaysia, many lobang if you know the ways of ways.

First Taste of Riding the Highway in China 

We rode next to the traffic police station near Mengla town. Here the bikes were inspected for serial number and engin number matching to puspakom documenation and each of us was processed and entered into the China drivers registeration system. With that, each of us obtained a temporary China driving licence and also a temporary China motorbike licence plate

I as usual arrive at the back of the group, however immediatly became the main transelator of the group. As Bing was busy with the formalities, and I am the only one with a slight capability to converse in Mandarin, very quickly the police dragged me everywhere they need to go, inspecting all the bikes while asking me to translate to the rest of the owners what they were looking for.

Temporary China Motorbike Plate Number for Bragge 

Police Station Stop near Mengla for Driving Licence & Motorbike Registration 

Our First Group Photo of Ride China 2023 

The bikers also very naturally drifted to me for everything in china ,,.... Edwin can you ask this ... Edwin, where are we going next .... Edwin ... why is this like this .... Edwin ... where are we now ... Edwin .... whats famous in this place ... Edwin .. what does this sign says .... Edwin ... how to read if this is halal ....

I could not read and it was also my first time in China, but it was not my first time travelling hence very quickly with my limited Mandarin, I became a secondary helper to Bing and words I could not speak, I mimed and spin until the locals teach me the correct word and meaning.I could say my Mandarin improved exponentially within the first two days in China.

From the first day, the traffic police talked to me asking a few question and finally knowing that I am a chinese malaysian of 4th decendent told me that my chinese is very good, regardless that my vocabulary is limited and that I could not read nor write. You will improve along the way he (police) said and words that I struggle to understand was immediately helped by many people around him to explain to me in different words what that particular words mean.

Friendly China Police welcoming us for our riding adventure


We left the police station and really started our journey in China late afternoon. It was only like a 150km ride to our destination Jinghong but that first ride in China is memorable. Pristine roads and highways that are so high up in the air the view is breathtaking, to Bing and Faz that has been to China before ... this is nothing they said ... but we could not help slowing down and absorbing the scenery.

Frist night in Jinghong and I could not resist the temptation to explore even thou we reach so late at night. Took a walk looking for dinner with Lachu and Bing, only three of us was free of the restriction of halal food.

First Pit Stop Petrol Station in China 

Riding in Jinghong Town


Back to the hotel and Faz, Hamzah, Jazz, Bullet, Azu all wanted to go for a massage and after dabate of how to get it done with translation challange, they all looked at me ... sure, I can join I told them and help translation. We ended up taking a taxi that Bing booked to the massage place but it was supprisingly expensive. Nearly RM 300 for a 90 minute massage and with my limited vocabulary I could not clearly undestand what kind of massage it was too.

We decided to skip it and went walking around to look for ourself another place. The massage place called Bing since he made the reservation and we ditch it, so he found another place and send us the location pin for us to find our self. This time round it was cheaper and everyone went for it.

Our Hotel for the night in Jinghong China

There was not enaugh masseur so the four of them went in first while I and Jazz sit outside waiting.

Coincidently we sat at the tea table and the shopkeeping poured us tea. With little conversation, slowly the translation begin to flow as the shopkeeper explain the type of tea and Jazz asking a few question where is translate and told them of our plan and adventure to explore china by motorbike. A local experience and soon things that I could not translate was boil down to the shopkeeper demonstration how the tea was made and prepared in sequence with Jazz and me just watching with awe....

This was all free of course ... and I was thinking .... the local experience like this that is just hapstances is really priceless ... 

Just Day 1 in China, and I’m in the part of China where few oversea tourist ever venture.


Traveled on: Jun 2023


Saturday, 16 September 2023

One day Overlanding Transit Through Laos from Thailand to China

The group roll off time was always early which defers from my usual slow pace sleep in time up to 9am. It was time to ajust to group tour mindset. We reached the border of Thailand at 730am and the border was yet to open so we hang around till 8am and process the exit procedure.

Exit thailand was normal and then it was entering Laos. Group Leader Faz had a Laos guide, that was waiting for us at the border. Group of bikes more than 5 required a guide to facilitate in Laos vehicle entry which was something new to me since the last time I crossed this border with Bluey in 2018 was alone.

Group Bike Entry into Laos - Huay Xai Border 

Imigration at Laos - Huay Xai Border 

Very slow border crossing as usual and we more or less entered Laos late morning and immediately it was a ride immediately to Boten about 200km journey to the border town between Laos and China. The roads were just as I remembered them in 2018, nice road with sudden potholes and many small streches of gravel road. We only had one pit stop at Luang Namtha for some coffee and I lagged behind so much I was the last of the last, even further behind the guide vehicle and beyond sight of the mopeds.

Laos Simply Beautiful View never cease to amaze me

The roads were good .... and then not so good ... Route AH 3 - Huay Xai to Boten

The mopeds was two Honda supercup ex5 callsign Kambing, and one Yamaha NVX which rides two people. By the time i reached Boten, I was so far behind that they had all checked into the hotel and dispersed to do their own thing. I still had no idea whom would be my roomate for the China leg and Boten was a solo room for RMB 120 for the night. Weird town as its still in Laos but totally feels like a subsidary of China.

The newly opened in 2023 Railway Station in Boten
Train Lines from Kunming - China to Vientiane - Laos 

The Border Town of Boten - Laos

Boten was a town I had not been to. I had been to Boten first gate, but did not know there was a town beyond that gate and that the immigatrtaion was beyond that. The town was already as if we were in China without the regulation. Everything was in RMB, the people all speak mandarin with almost no Lao languege. The town no longer had any gambling activities but was full of pubs and open shops with pink lights. The Laos guide told us those were massage shop with a twinkle in his eye.

It was a border town like in the stories but without the filters.

Hotel in Boten

Night Street Food in Boten

Next day we set off early again and exit Laos border and says good bye to the Laos guide which wished us all the best and will await our return after 10 days in China. In a way this crossing is the least understood crossing that I have ever been to since its a first for me with a guide. The guide took our passports and processed all the exit requirement of personnel and vehicle while we just laz around taking photos. An hour later we were good to go and just ride on passing though the gates and exiting Laos

Golden Gate Border at Boten

Just bringing our own Chair to Chill while waiting to Exit Laos Border

200 meters away was China border and our guide for the next 10 days was there waiting with excitement in his face.

Bing would be a good friend to us all during the trip in China for the next 10 Days.

Entering China - Mohan Border 

Traveled on: Jun 2023