Miri the Black Hole.

Always there will be a place thoughout my travels where I call it the black hole and for me in Sarawak, that was Miri. I stayed a total of 5 nights in Miri doing almost nothing, watching movies, seeing sunset, a few museum here and there but the bulk of the time, sleeping and just aimless scrolling on google.

Heck, the fact that I even missed updating my journal the whole 6 days I was in Miri doing nothing was a defination of Black Hole. (Somehow ending up staying longer without knowing why – the black hole – sucking you up and compelling you to stay)

Miri has a charm I could not explain, just the right time right place right chill type of vibe to go around for the tired long term traveller is what I would call it. My favaruite passtime was watching the sunset in Miri.

Sunset at Coco Cabana - Miri 

Sunset at Coco Cabana - Miri

Sunset at Coco Cabana - Miri

A few things to do in Miri was the historic Grand Old Lady Well No.1 Up on a hill with a view point of the coast of Miri town. The other was drinking. I found quite a few niche watering hole in Miri and in a way it makes sense with the proximity to Brunei where drinking is no fun. 

The Grand Lady Well No.1 - Miri 

Miri City 

Watering Holes in Miri - Alice in Borneoland 

I did manage to make a daytrip to Tusan Beach to see the natural formation of a cliff that looks like a horse drinking water from the sea. It was reported to be collapsed in 2020 so I was fortunate to see it at all.

Tusan Beach is also famous to see the Blue Luminesanse plankton which gives off the natural Blue Tears Phenomenon ... although ... there is some luck required to actually see it dependent on time, clouds, microorganism etc ... I did not stay to try and see it as the roads were not lighted at night for a motorbike ride.

Iconic Horse Drinking Water at Tusan Beach - Collapse in 2020

Tusan Beach Monument - Guess they have to change it now 

A large part of Miri was also spend debating with Audrey as she was also sucked into the black hole of Miri, we talked alot about a lot of thing, philosophically mostly. Audrey expected me to understand her view point of why the people think the orang utan needs saving, that the palm oil is a bad industry and that the laws in Brunei where gays are to be a death sentance is inhumane.

I used many ways to explained but basicly told her that in this part of the world, in their eyes, the westerners are the crazy one, thinking that gay is normal, that forest are being chop for palm oil is pure nonsense. Forest is being chopped for timber, and then after for plantation which so happen to be palm oil. Why single out palm oil? Enviromental ? Bah. I dont belived it to be that simple.

The western forget that they have already destroyed their own natural ecology and fully cultivate their land. What the people here in Asia now is doing the same thing to strive to get out of poverty but while we harvest the land for the spoils, we have desinagted forest reserved for the habitat.

I always find that the ideology of the young western people are so fragile, easily influence by the media, the sad stories and in this generation, the peer pressure to be a good enviromental friendly human. Sure we may be destroying rainforest for palm oil, but frankly I truly belived that the ones destroying the world are those trying to impose what they think is right onto other peoples minds.

How do you know you are wrong if you belive that you are right !

The dificulty of changing a point of view is like asking someone to change his religon ....

Miri Mascot The Sea Horse at Coco Cabana Beach - Miri

Miri Old Town. 

Traveled On: Aug 2019

Camping at Gua Niah

Bintulu to Niah cave was a simple ride and I reach Niah nice and early around 3pm. Pitch a tent for RM5 a night at the national park camping ground and just wait around for nightfall so I can sleep and explore the caves the next day.

Niah National Park - Gua Niah Sarawak

With me camping that night was Michal, a backpacker from Czech Republic and I offered him a ride to the nearby Niah town for dinner. Next morning, I gave him a ride to the Pan Borneo Junction so he could get a bus to Miri. Apparently there is no public transport from the junction to Niah National Park and taxi shuttles cost around RM 25 one way.

I thought I would help a fellow traveler out but at the same time felt a little sorry for the loss in livelihood of my fellow Malaysian unable to earn that RM 25 for the day.

I also arranged with Audrey the day before, since she was at Miri and she agreed to come do the hike to Niah caves together. Perfect timing in a way since I sent Michal out to the junction in the morning, I was able to pick up Audrey from the same spot back to the national park.

OK so the fact is that I deprived the locals that day of a total RM 75 earnings.

Niah caves is one of the most amazing, elaborate and beautiful caves I have ever seen in the whole South East Asia journey. Chiang Dao caves does not even compare, the Budda Caves in Trang was beautifully lighted up with Buddha sculpture placed strategically, but Niah caves outshine it in shear natural beauty.

Boardwalk trial to the Niah Caves 

Trades Caves - Niah

Traders Caves - Niah

Traders caves, Great Caves, Dark Caves and the Caves Painting. I would say that Niah National Park was worth every bit of money to explore as it was not something extremely costly and easily done without a guide but not so simple that one might just glimpse by too fast. The whole hike took 4 hours return journey and I was really exhausted by the end of exploring Gua Niah. I send Audrey back to the junction and returned to Niah National Park to camp another night for it was too much to ride to Miri on the same day after the hike.

The Great Caves - Niah 

View Looking out from the Great Caves - Niah

Pockets of sunlight through the Great Caves - Niah

Pitch Dark Area Through the Great Caves - Niah

The other end of Great Caves Past the Dark Area - Niah

Looking Back to the Great Caves and Dark Area - Niah

Niah Caves Prehistoric Drawings - Niah 

The second night, it rained. First time for me camping that it rained and I was wondering how good was this expensive tent I bought back in Kuching. I was miraculously dry throughout the night even with the heavy thundershowers and the tent was holding up well, clean and looked like it had a nice wash.

Camping at Niah National Park

This tent is definitely a keeper.

Traveled on: Aug 2019

The Legend of Niah Caves

Apart from being a geological marvel, Niah Caves is a network of caves with many levels and legends. The curse of Peira is one of the local favorite with legends tied to Niah Caves

***

Long ago in the Niah Caves area, there was a village on a hill called Bukit Terayeng.

As the story goes, the people of the village decided to extend their longhouse.

According to their customs and beliefs, anyone wishing to build a house must sacrifice a human child on the spot where the first house post for the new longhouse would go.

A child was carefully chosen and the sacrifice was completed

The unfortunate child was a grandson of an old woman named Peira.

One day, upon realizing that her grandson did not come home, shewent looking for him.

After a long search, Peira found a bloodstain on the ground and knew at once that her grandson had been the victim of the tradition.

She wept bitterly over the loss of her only living descendant and vowed revenge on her people.

“For this, let all mankind alsodie,” Peira Cursed

For five consecutive days, she beat gongs and danced.

Eventually, a large crowd gathered and was amazed to see the lonely old woman beating out dance-rhythms for days and nights.

Suddenly, the sky turned dard, a storm began, the wind howled, and rain fell as stones.

The longhouse then turned into a cave and all the people turned to stone – thus forming the caves and the mountain above.

It is believed that the people can still be seen in the caves today as stalagmites and stalactites

***

Traveled on: Aug 2022

Lazing in Bintulu

Bintulu was a blank slate in my memory. For a big town in Sarawak, I actually did not have much to write about. In my journal the below was all I could note down.

“ Really there is nothing much to write about Bintulu. I spend most time coop up in the hotel watching TV series and just resting up. I guess a quiet place and a private comfatable hotel room for RM 27 a night will do that to you.”

Riding around Bintulu felt like a good medium size city that has most things but still lacking the slight pull to make it stand out. It was still the midway between Sibu and Miri and a good cheap place to rest up.

Temple in Bintulu 

Tanjung Batu - Bintulu, Sarawak 

Favaruite past time would be watching the sun set at Pantai Tanjung Batu Bintulu, beautifully located facing west and a promenade practially made for camping, I spend most evening here just crowd watching.

Sunset at Bintulu, Sarawak

Traveled on: Aug 2019

ABC Apong, Tibou & Camping in Mukah

I headed to Mukah from Sibu with only one thing in mind really. A break in the middle for the journey to Bintulu. I found on google that there was a park by the beach and I figured I could camp there for the night before heading to Bintulu.

In reality, I did not expect much from Mukah, I knew it would be just a passing town but stopping by somehow seamed right instead of just pumping through to Bintulu from Sibu. I tried to visit the few attraction in Mukah which was the Lamin Dana Longhouse, a traditional Melanau tribe longhouse but alas, some film crew was shooting a drama series there and it was out of bounds for a few days. I managed to sneak a shot outside but that was it.

Lamin Dana Longhouse - Traditional Melanau Tribe Longhouse - Mukah, Sarawak

Nearby Lamin Dana Longhouse I stopped for lunch and thats where I met Romeo the owner of the shop. He was curious what I was doing in Mukah and after a few chitchat knowing I was going to camp at the beach, he actually offered for me to stay at his house for the night or suggested for me to camp at the football field just in front of the shop where there is toilets and I could charge my phone in the restaurant.

I hang around for a long time in the afternoon at Romeo’s restaurant just to escape the heat and when my drink neared the end, he came out with a Ais Kacang but this was the Sarawak version called Apong ABC. On the house he said, welcome to Mukah.

Apong ABC 

Romeo's Restaurant, Mukah - Sarawak

I said I will drop by later at night but for now, will take Bluey for a round in Mukah. Mukah is a really small town but well kept. Nothing much to shout about but they do have a KFC in town. I went to the beach or park which is called Pesta Gaul, so apparently the park is where the Melanau people held their festival every year, the Pesta Gaul (Gaul Festival).

I caught a glimpse of the famous Tibou game played by some kids on a smaller version. Four young boys repeatedly jumping off the ledge onto the rattan rope swining all squish up together hanging on for dear life.

Tibou Site - Pesta Gaul - Mukah

Many Kite Flyers at the Pesta Gaul Park - Mukah - Sarawak

By night, I went back to Romeos restaurant and notice a local open air, super loud kareoke has set up shop and the locals were screaming their lungs away having a good time. RM3 per song or RM 10 for 4 songs they said.

Sarawak felt this was this was to me whenever I go out of town. The people friendly and out to help. I eventually camp at the beach anyway since it was the best spot, quiet and serene and in the morning an old man excersizing strolled up to me while I packed up camp and asked what I was doing. My standard story of camping and riding around Borneo was met with a smile and he wish me all the best but at the same time told me to be careful while camping out.

Camping at Mukah Beach - Sarawak

Traveled on: Aug 2019