Border Crossing at Chong Chom (Thailand) to O’Smach (Cambodia) on a Motorbike

The day started with an easy ride around 70km from Surin to the border Chong Chom which was a really small international border. The Immigration counter was barely a booth and I asked around at the Thai side like an idiot naturally on how to exit with Bluey.

Immigration exit done and Custom Declaration handed back to Thailand, the friendly officer lifted the barrier allowing me out of Thailand and pointed to the right small little shack barely 20m away which was the Cambodian Immigration. 

Thailand Immigration & Customs at Chong Chom

I was really focus this time so no picture was taken unfortunately.

Cambodia immigration was straightforward and I filled up the arrival card then got stamped in for 100 baht processing fee. I did not ask anything regarding Bluey and just pick up bluey and ride on.

Down the hill about 300m pass immigration and I see a smaller shack with small little words on the window that said customs & excise. Being stupid, I slowed down and parked my bike right next to booth.

There was no one crossing this border surprisingly. I crossed at 1130 am but the whole time I saw less than 5 people crossing over.

The customs officer opened the booth window and I passed him my passport and Bluey’s Malaysian Vehicle Ownership Papers. Immediately he called someone and asked if a Malaysian bike can be allowed into Cambodia.

Thinking fast or rather stupidly again, I passed him a copy of the Thailand temporary import permit form and then also pass him a copy of my previous import papers via Poipet.

I could see the special Custom Permit (Temporary) booklet at the table by his hand and it was definitely something different and new. How time slowed down so much for me waiting for some sort of reply for the officer while he conversed with a higher ranking officer on the phone.

Wait he says ...

A moment later another officer turn up which I presume was the one speaking on the other end of the phone. He looked at Bluey papers and without any questions started writing up the Custom Permit (Temporary). I held my breath, I dare not celebrate until I had the papers and were riding well far far away from the Border.

Where are you going?

Samroang, Siam Reap, Phnom Penh, Pailin .... I rambled away

You exit to Thailand ?

Yes, from Pailin to Thailand. Its it ok ?

A silent nod was the reply

The officer finished writing up the Customs Permit (Temporary) and looked again at my papers and frown. He looked more closely to the copy of import papers I obtained from Poipet on my previous entry which was clearly and totally different from what he was preparing to issue me.

Why you don’t have papers for me to issue you this?

He dangled the copy of import papers from Poipet.

Gulp!

Sometimes I wonder, even when preparing to lie, and the practice of everything but when it comes down to something as important as border crossings, I somehow always end up telling the truth. I would skirt around, omit certain things innocently, but still a variant of the truth. I somehow feels like if I were caught on an outright lie, that would be the end.

I got asked last year when I was in Phnom Penh for papers to enter Cambodia again this year but the Ministry of Tourism says maybe by this time the system will be changed and I don't need to go to Phnom Penh.

A hard glance on the papers again and the officer finally made the seal stamp of the Customs Permit (Temporary) and handed me back all my documents plus a very very precious Customs Permit (Temporary).

You can go.

Thank you ..... 

Temporary Import Permit for Bluey 

I was genuinely surprised. I thought for sure I needed to pay a little bit of money as a fee at least but never did the officer mention anything of that sort. This permit was free compared to the one previously at Poipet, I needed to pay USD12.5 but somehow the customs always round up the figure to USD 15 and never return change.

I rode off as fast as I could still not celebrating yet watching out for road blocks or police checks which normally happens near borders. You think you have escaped but then DANG. No road blocks and I reached the small village of Samroang barely after 1pm. I gave it a moment thought and decided I will put more distance between the border and me and rode straight to Siam Reap.

Upon closer inspection of the Customs Permit (Temporary), I now understood how lucky I was really in even obtaining this piece of paper. The address and nationality was stated THAILAND and this was not written but readily printed on the permit. If I understand correctly, this permit is issued only to Thai nationals with Thai vehicles.

Anyhow, since I have the permit anyway, I have mentally convince myself that this permit is legit. If stopped and asked by any police regarding the wrong type of permit being issued, I would just claim ignorance and that I was issued the permit so I thought ...... HEY I GOT PERMIT SO I AM NOT IN THE WRONG!!!

Next challenge will be leaving Cambodia .... 

Traveled on : Mar 2019

Exploring Phimai & Korat

Nahkon Ratchasima or Korat was the largest city in Isaan, or so that is what I was told but more than that was Phimai, a small town nearby that has many historical and cultural value. From Yasothon, it made sense to go to Phimai first then Korat. Initial plan was to save these both places to be visited after I went another round trip into Cambodia but since I now had to burn time, zig zagging around Isaan and just taking my own time to visit places slowly was the way to go.

Phimai had a few things carefully preserved. For one the Phimai historical park is maintained in a very good manor. Supposedly the miniature version of Angkor Wat, it is believed that Phimai was the place where they experimented on the architecture of Angkor Wat before it was actually built. Like a test scale model. 

Phimai Historical Park

Phimai Historical Park

Phimai Historical Park

The more intricate and well preserved historical artifacts however would need to be seen in the Phimai National Museum round back of the historical park. I nearly gave it a pass, but was glad I spend the money to enter in the end. These intricate carvings would have never survive the environment if not preserved

Phimai National Museum

Phimai National Museum

To be honest, at Phimai, I was more interested in Sai Ngam, the largest Banyan Tree in Thailand. To South East Asian, the banyan tree is a holy tree to be respected. In which religion I am unsure but when seen, it always have an aura tied to the stories of little mischievous people spirits and the lore varies around South East Asia. I end up going back to Sai Ngam park every day for a walk but respectfully leave by sundown. 

Sai Ngam Park - Thailand

Korat was next and as expected a large busy city. Nothing much to do here but wander around, visit the shopping center, see some movies and enjoy the perks of modern comforts. One good thing about big cities is that you can always spot the special food stalls that stands out from the rest. The extra busy hands, the longer queue, the more bustling food stalls. 

Downtown of Nahkon Ratchasima

Korat - Foodstall

Korat - Raw Fish Salad

Traveled on: Mar 2019

The Remote Area of Isaan – Amnat Charoen & Yasothon

Its been a while since my last entry into this journal but i guess the sights and the travelling was really so mundane or more like time wasting burning that it was not much worth writing about. From Kong Chiam to Amnat Charoen to Yasothon to Phimai to Korat then an overnight stay in Surin before the heart pounding attempt in crossing in to Cambodia for the second time. 

(That crossing was a success ^^) 

From Kong Chiam I made my way up stopping by the Mekong river viewpoint of Samphanbok. Hard to describe in words and my camera cant really capture the essence of the place but it was just once of those weird landscape places that one do not expect to view. I seen the Mekong river from the Golden Triangle all the way in the north and have been tracing it down ever so slowly and the Mighty Mekong never fail to amaze me. 

Samphanbok - Thailand 

Samphanbok - Thailand

To be fair, there was not much to remember .... only when looking back at my photos that i realized for a countryside, the people do tend to spice up things for no reason. From hay sculpture to giant Naruto sized frogs, there were still things to observed while riding through the most un-touristic part of Thailand.

The hotels that I stayed all told me the same thing. No tourist stays here ... only businessman on a visit to do work. 

Wiman Phaya Tan - Yasothon - Thailand

Hay Sculpture - Thailand

Traveled on: Mar 2019

The Two Colour River Kong Chiam

I discovered Khong Chiam purely by accident when I decided to visit the National Museum in Ubon Ratchathani. The museum was a small building giving historical insights to Ubon area and the Pha Taem National park caught my interest where pre historic human settlement was discovered with extensive rock art on cliff facing the Mekong river. 

Kong Chiam - Two Color River

Two Colour River - Kong Chiam

I did not waste time and located it on google maps to see that it was fairly near to the Chong Mek border. Initial plan was to do a run straight to Chong Mek from Ubon since accommodation was almost non existent or way too expensive in Chong Mek for my budget but upon discovering Khong Chiam it was decided I would stop there for a night at least before attempting the border run.

What was suppose to be a one night event visiting this very small village which sets at the merge of the Mun and Mekong river ended up becoming a four night recoup place for me to organized my thoughts.

Bluey rejection of entry to Laos made me came back to Khong Chiam for the second night and somehow every morning I keep extending another night. The guesthouse owner was extremely please every morning as I walked up to the reception sleepily and said one more night please, paying the 300 baht for a room a night.

Its a weird place for me even for doing nothing much of significant.

Khong Chiam felt like a little hidden gem that the locals do daytrip or overnight trip from Ubon Ratchathani to see the two color river which comes from the Mun and Mekong river merging but what I saw was one beautiful same color two river. Apparently it was the wrong season to see it but still this quint little village had a serenity I could not really describe. 

A peaceful little place - Kong Chiam

The whole place was walkable from one end to another in 10 minutes with main trade seemingly niche and cozy guesthouse lining up at every corner yet walking around day or night this place was almost deserted of people. There must be a season for visitors I think but seriously I doubt it could be filled up even on a busy weekend.

Although such a small village, this place had a lot of quirky charms to lull in tourist. Known as the most eastern town in Thailand or with the quote, The first to see the sunrise in Thailand. By chance, one of the days of my stay was a Saturday morning where a local market or Lao market as they call it since the people from both Thai and Lao side set up stalls and shops in Khong Chiam to sell their goods. 

The most Eastern Part of Thailand - First to see the sunrise of Thailand - Kong Chiam

Saturday Market at Kong Chiam

On the hill behind Khong Chiam lies Wat Tham Khuha Sawan with stairs leading up the hill. At first I did not bother with the temple since temple in Thailand were like mushrooms, everywhere and beautiful but after a while all looked the same. I had too much time in Khong Chiam thats for sure so a visit to the temple surprised me with a freaking huge Giant Gong that make no sense or place being there. 

ASEAN Friendship Gong - Kong Chiam

Naturally I did a daytrip to Pha Taem National Park only to find out that the entry for foreigner was 400 baht compared to locals which was 40 baht. I don't feel angry nor do I really bother about such things really since most times in Thailand when the park ranger accidentally charge me the local price, I still tell them I am farang and set the right amount down. The question was more if I was willing to pay that amount of money for the anticipation of what there was to see.

I decided against, and followed the local recommendation to go around down towards a smaller village along the Mekong river. The road run parallels with the national park and from there I could see the cliff from a distance for free but not close enough to make out the rock arts from pre historic times. 

Entrance to Pha Taem National Park

Viewing Pha Taem National Park Cliff from afar 

Other days in Khong Chiam was like a dream just somehow doing nothing but passing the time way too fast that I could imagine. One day should be enough to sort out my next plan of the journey but somehow this place managed to suck my thinking cap for four nights.

The guesthouse owner once she knew I was Malaysian and could speak Chinese even called out her single daughter to have conversations with me which opens up a more wider understanding of this charming little town.

Still I knew the magic word when I heard it.

Stay here for a month .... relax ....

The magic word ... STAY ... it was time to leave Khong Chiam tomorrow

Traveled on: Mar 2019 

Rejected Entry at Chong Mek-Vang Tao Border

My first entry into Laos with Bluey was so easy that I took Laos for granted thinking that at any point in time I could skirt into Laos through any one of the numerous border with Thailand and explore to my hearts content.

The first sign of trouble was in Mukdahan where I impulsively decided to cross the border from Thailand to Laos – Savannahket but with a quick rejection from the Thai side refusing to even let me out of Thailand. 

Thailand - Chong Mek Border 

Laos - Vang Tao Border 

Immigration would not stamp me out and custom will not allow Bluey onto the friendship bridge hence I was turn away before I even had any attempt at the Lao side. According to the Thai immigration officer which I was pleading my case, this border apparently do not allow motorbikes to be ride across the friendship bridge. The only way was for me across the border was to get a good but a little greedy local Samaritan to ferry Bluey by loading the bike up a pick up truck.

The Thai side immigration estimates that a good tip of 1500 baht would be able to attract some good local Samaritan but even with the immigration officer asking on my behalf, the few people with pick up crossing the border turn down the offer almost immediately. I would not have mind paying the money but there was still no guarantee that the Lao side will allow me in with Bluey even with this arrangement.

I asked which border can I used instead of Mukdahan to cross over to Laos with Bluey and the immigration officer was kind enough to make some calls to all the neighboring border. Apparently all the friendship bridge across the Mekong river was touchy and probably end up with a rejection and she suggested the Chong Mek -Vang Tao border with a confirm yes.

A few weeks later I arrived at Chong Mek border.

The Thai side immigration asked me one question which set up a small red flag in my head.

Your motorbike can enter Laos ??

Thinking fast I said yes and proceeded to show him the entry form (always make a copy of the temporary import permit) I made with Bluey a few month back through Chiang Khan – Huay Xai border and he was convince enough to process me and Bluey out of Thailand.

At the Laos side Vang Tao, immigration was pretty simple with only 100 baht fee for passport processing which I paid and then it was customs. I could see the locals processing the TIP form in front of me (all cars from Thailand) but when it was my turn somehow communication was not easy. They made we wait while looking for someone who could speak English and the words that came from her drained all the blood from my face.

Motorbike from Malaysia going to Laos ?

Yes

Alone ?

Yes

We cannot issue permit for single motorbike going into Laos. This border only issue permit for convoy of minimum three bikes.

I pled, beg, pestered but the customs were not interested and I was left standing outside and ignored. The young girl who could speak English suggested that I go to the insurance agency to ask if he could help arrange some manner for me to enter Laos with Bluey.

Thinking I had hope, I left the customs counter to locate the insurance agency but the moment I mention motorbike in my word, the fat old guy gave me the palm and said NO. I was shown the door and ignored completely. Back to customs to plea my case and the girl who could speak English has vanish. My face was known now and trying to beg for the TIP in English came back with continuous strings of explanations in Lao which I had no clue what they were saying other than the end of the sentence which they said NO.

So close, just one more step and I would be like a little boy enjoying candy while I explore the southren part of Laos and the famous four thousand islands.

Back to Laos immigration and I got a stamp out on the same day and turned back to re-enter Thailand.

What do I do now ...

Traveled on: Mar 2019