Friday, 4 July 2025

China Day 26 - Our Last Days in China - Kashgar Ancient City

It was the last day in China. Tomorrow we would all head towards Torugart border to cross into Kyrgyzstan, officially completing the China crossing and finally able to go our own separate ways. 

The group were all lively but we still had a free day to enjoy in Kashgar before tomorrow’s nightmare. Early morning we were greeted by our new guide Heidy. 

Yep this was our third China guide in the trip, for the border crossing in Xinjiang required a local guide and Nick our main guide is not qualified for the procedure. 

In a way it was a protected job like Guide Tenzin in Tibet. Nick had already left last night flying back to Mohan to pick up the next group crossing China.

Heidy led us to the Sunday Livestock Market where in Kashgar happens only once a week on a Sunday. Our whole itinerary revolved around reaching Kashgar on a weekend just to see this so the amount of expectation was high.

Kashgar Livestock Market selling Freshly Cooked Food 

Kashgar Livestock Market Selling Freshly Cooked Food

Fresh Meat at Kashgar Livestock Market

For once, it was not a tourist attraction but an actual market where the locals from all over Xinjiang come to trade their livestock's. 

There was abundance of cows and sheep but there was also the few niches of horses and camels. There was no real need for Heidy as a guide in a sense. Just a location pin and all of us could have done it on our own time going by Vehicle or taxi.

Kashgar Livestock Market

Kashgar Livestock Market 

Camel's for sale at Kashgar Livestock Market 

By the time we left the Livestock Market, we practically told Heidy that we would be ok visiting the rest of the sights on our own and would see her the next day morning for the border crossing. 

The group split up and we all visited Gaotai Ancient Dwelling and then back to Kashgar Old City. Mid afternoon I split from the group to get more work done on Bragge. 

Gaotai Ancient Dwelling - Kashgar 

Gaotai Ancient Dwelling - Kashgar 

It was time for a oil change but also to get some spot lights fitted for the upcoming adventure. My front light had blown for a while now, so spot lights would really help a lot and for Central Asia where most roads were not lighted up, I had best be prepared.

The fitting took longer than I had expected as the spotlight could not plug and play hence some modification and ingenuity was required. By evening all done and ready, I grab some quick bite and then it was bed resting up barely able to sleep thinking of the next chapter of the adventure tomorrow.

New Spotlights on Bragge

Traveled on: June 2024


Friday, 27 June 2025

China Day 25 - Akesu – Kashgar

Todays riding distance was 460km and through a landscape that had became numb, since after so many days of the same. I decided that I would take the national road instead, which was running parallel to the highway. 

Motorcycles had to pay for tolls on highway in Xingjiang and it was a hefty fee too especially since I had not paid for any before in other province of China.

The first turnoff the highway and I ran into a dessert racing event. Police road blocks were everywhere but the event was free to watch. 

Vehicles of all kinds from simple pick-up to fully modified monsters for sand dunes were taking their turn doing a lap through the dessert terrain trying to clock the fastest time.

Watching a Desert Race Event in Xinjiang 

I had to backtrack to the highway after seeing the race a short while. I rode a little while and when it was clear there was no more races, I shoot off again to the national road towards Kashgar. 

There was barely any vehicles on the national road so I was speeding the same speed I would on a highway anyway so there was not much time lost.

It was a pure covering distance day and zombie riding towards Kashgar which I arrived nice and early for dinner. May send me a message and somehow we picked up a strangler at the lobby, Vick for dinner. Loh had gone to do more repairs to the Van so May was alone. Since they had not much in mind, I dragged them to Kashgar Old City for dinner.

Vast Empty Landscape Riding in Xinjiang

National Road from Akesu to Kashgar 

National Road from Akesu to Kashgar

Kashgar Old City was very much picturesque so even hungry, we could not resist a little exploring for the sake of photos. I somehow managed to find the one family run restaurant tucked between the massive tourist street filled with trinkets. We were ushered up to the second floor where the two daughters emerged from their hiding place to take our order.

One looked like a European while the sister looked very Chinadoll like. Food were superb and the two cute sisters were teased a lot by May and Vick. I was just enjoying a cosy meal in a most likely one of the last few remaining family past down business in busy historical touristy city.

A Local Restaurant in Kashi - China 

Xinjiang Cusine. Flat Bread with Mutton Soup 

Interior of a Family Restaurant in Kashgar - China

After dinner it was more sightseeing coupled with even a coffee break and by the time we reluctantly leave Kashgar Old City it was already dark which means it was nearly 11pm. 

We had one more full day in Kashgar tomorrow and then it would be the long awaited exit from China where a new chapter would begin for most of us.

Kashgar Ancient City - East Gate 

Fort Tower in Kashgar Ancient City Walls 

Kashgar Ancient City 

Traveled on: June 2024


Friday, 20 June 2025

China Day 24 - Luntai – Akesu with Detour to Kizil Thousand Buddha Grottoes

From Luntai to Akesu city it was another 500km journey. While the ride was easy since it was flat good road through desert landscape, day after day of riding such distance was starting to re-built fatigue in a manner that seams unquenchable no matter how much rest we got.

I probably became a bit too much on autopilot while riding during the day and that was not good for sights and memories became a jumble while focus was lost in planning future things like the logistics to go through Central Asia.

Kizil Devil City Geopark of Yandan Landform 

Kizil Devil City Geopark of Yandan Landform 

Kizil Devil City Geopark of Yandan Landform 

Hence the recommended first stop for Kizil Devil City Geopark of Yandan Landform was a no brainer. I needed more detour stop even at the cost of more exhaustion for the monotone movement of going from one point to another everyday was more costly to my soul.

The landscape was fierce, backed with snowcap Tienshan mountain on the backdrop made it even more unbelievable. In a few days we would leave China to cut across Tienshan mountain range but for now riding along it felt that once we go over that ridge, a whole new adventure would begin.

Second detour was Kizil Thousand Buddha Grottoes. The caves are said to be the earliest major Buddhist Caves complex in China with development occurring between the 3rd and 8th centuries. 

Much smaller than the Magao Grottoes in Dunhuang but with the remote location, barely any tourist was around which made it more a peaceful exploration.

Road to Kizil Thousand Buddha Grottoes 

Kizil Thousand Buddha Grottoes 

Kizil Caves Temple Complex Entrance 

After leaving Kizil Thousand Buddha Grottoes, I was riding very slow with no apparent reason to get to the highway. Suddenly I saw something move quickly in the desert just by the road and it was a desert dear.

It was so rare to see this kind of wildlife and I immediately know that it was lucky to have even spot it. The dear ran away when I stopped my motorbike to watch it but then it came to a stop and even waited long enough for me to catch a photo before disappearing over the dessert ridge.

Do you see a Desert Dear ? 

Traveled on: May 2024


Friday, 13 June 2025

China Day 23 – Turpan – Korla – Luntai

Today would be the most boring day and least memorable day in the trip. It was a 500km journey from Turpan to Korla and then to Luntai. 

No interesting stops and barely anything to see. Worst part is that highways in this part of China, Xinjiang was not free for motorbikes so I had to stop and get a ticket that was calculated based on kilometers traveled on the highway.

Toll Booth in China - Xinjiang Province where Motorcycle is NOT exempted from payment

Long Boring Highways - Xinjiang Province China 

Halfway though the highway and I decided it was not worth the money going the highway since I could see the national road just beside it devoid and empty of vehicles. 

I decided to turn off the highway and made my way slowly going through desert landscape. 

Off the Highway to Local National Road in Xinjiang 

Riding Through Desert from Korla to Luntai 

At this point of the trip, I was constantly the last man since everyone had develop a monster capacity of flying through China in top speed.

Traveled on: May 2024

Monday, 9 June 2025

China Day 22 - Hami to Turpan Flaming Mountain the Hottest Place in China

The weather had definitely made a 180 turnabout since Hami. Cool air was no more and all the winter gear was packed up tight below the bag for long term storage and I was now riding in as little clothes as possible and still feeling the heat burning through all the protective gear. 

The good thing was, it was not humid like Malaysia so continuous perspiring was non-existent but heat exhaustion was real.

Riding the Country Road to Turpan 

Oil Rig "Donkeys" all along the road from Hami to Turpan

I must have split from the group too early I think and somehow made my way through another road to the first detour stop. The wrong road brought me going through an oil field where hundreds of oil rig “Donkeys” were in operation.

Tuyugou Valley Scenic Area was a nice old village turned into a pure tourist attraction. It was hard to see any locals still living there and not trying to sell a trinket to a passing tourist but as the oldest village in Xinjiang with 2600 years of history it was still a sight to see.

Local Tourism Dressing up in Traditional Ethnic Costume at Tuyugou Valley 

Old Mosque at Tuyugou Valley 

Tuyugou Valley Ancient City in Xinjiang 

We headed to Gaochang Ancient City Archaeological site next but at the entrance looking into the big empty area which required a cart to explore, all of us surrendered to the heat and gave it a hard pass. 

We still tried to have a little glimpse of the Ancient City without paying the entrance fee by riding around the ring road hence was able to see many of the crumbling walls.

A Glimpse of Gaochang Ancient City Archeological Site 

Third stop was a fun stop for me at least. Turpan Flaming Mountain. It has some origins to the famous novel “Journey to the West” and the flaming mountains looked like flames rising from the ground all the way to the sky. 

History also documented that the summer air temperature was 48 degrees and the mountain surface temperature once reached 89 degrees making it the hottest place in China.

I of course could only imagine Sun Wukong and the team crossing this path and having to fight the Demon Bull which somehow got mixed up with Sun Goku having to put out the flames of the mountain to obtain the Dragonball. I was daydreaming a lot in the third stop for sure.

Statue of Sun Wukong at Turpan Flaming Mountain 

Turpan Flaming Mountain 

Monument of Journey to The West team at Turpan City 

We reached Turpan city late evening and by now, arriving at the destination city no longer became a obligation to explore the city. 

Checked in the hotel and out to find food before heading to bed was the routine. 400 km journey today and it would only get longer tomorrow

Traveled on: May 2024