China Day 17 - Nagqu to Tuotuohe a little Trucker Rest Town

Last few days in remote Tibet and it was time to go downhill from Nagqu but before that could happen we had to climb Tangula Mountain Pass at 5231m to exit Tibet region and cross over to Qinghai Province in China.

The pass was blanket white snow. So much so, that I thought I was going blind not able to see anything but white. Fortunately it was a short mountain pass crossing and soon we were going down altitude wise and the weather became slightly warmer.

Tangula Mountain Pass 

Bragge develop a Cold Beard going through the Mountain snowpass

Around an hour into the journey, we all joined back up to a road block which was rare now that we had left the busy construction works at G318. 

Turned out that the road block was due to windmills blades being transported through some narrow winding roads that required both lanes.

Windmill Blades being Transported along G109

Maybe it was leaving Tibet region but today felt like a whimsical day going through the roads barely registering much into memory. 

We reached Tuotuohe which was one of the least interesting place in our entire journey. A trucker village stop where mostly people use it as a base to break the long journey between Nagqu and Golmund.

G109 - Mountains after mountains 

G109 - A long ride through nothing 

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 16 - Riding in the Snow from Xianza County – Nagqu

Early misty morning we departed Xianza and had a steady and slow climb to even higher elevation if that was even possible. Barren landscape with pristine road but visibility was really bad with the cloudy weather then out of nowhere, it was snowing.

Riding on the Snowline - Xianza County Tibet 

The number of times I could count on my one hand of witnessing falling snow. The stupidity of Malaysian in me of course had to make a stop to admire and enjoy the falling snow before freezing like hell and then mounting back the bike to go on. 

Not much further ahead and the scenery changed to pure white mountain range that had snow all the way to the ground next to the road.

Whiteout Snow Ride - Xianza County Tibet

Needless to say, I stopped every time there was falling snow and moved on again once it was too cold to bear. After the short ride through the mountain pass, we reach a very vast Tibetan plains. 

I never knew you could see land all the way to the horizon and always thought this was only possible along the beach looking out to sea. It was beautifully desolate.

Open Plains in Tibetan Plateau 

Sheep Crossing in the open plains of Tibetan Plateau 

Soon we came upon our first stop for todays journey. Seling Co Lake. When spelled out in the tour guide description for the four recommended stop today it was impressive and appetizing to the mind but to be frank, today’s journey was just simple and beautiful scenery.

The selling script by tour operator was as below.

1st Stop – Seling Co Lake

It is known and the Devil’s Lake with Radiant Reflection in Tibetan and is the largest lake in the Tibet Autonomous Region and the second largest saltwater lake in China. 

It sits at the northern foot of the Gangdise Mountains boasting an altitude of 4530m above sea level. 

Its irregular shape extend primarily in an east-west direction with a length of 77.7 km and maximum width of 45.5km. The lake area covers approximately 2391 sqkm making it a significant natural feature in the region.

Surrounding Seling Co Lake are 23 satelite lakes creating a stunning necklace like scenery. The lake is also a habitat for numerous rare and endangewred species including the largest black0necked crane nature reserve in the world. 

Pengtso Lake 

The lake serene beauty coupled with the surrounding mountains and pasture offers a breathtaking view of mountains within the lake.

2nd Stop Baggetso Lake
3rd Stop Bamutso Lake
4th stop Pengtso Lake

Yep we had a lot of beautiful lakes along the way which we skirted the fringe going though barren plains with many wildlife and a few shallow mountain passes with snow whiteout covering the landscape. 

We were already very high in altitude traveling constantly above 4000m so that few shallow mountain pass was all it takes to change the climate and scenery drastically.

By the time I reached Nagqu after a 450km journey, I was wiped out tired from fighting the weather. Mostly also due to my stupidity of always stopping to enjoy the falling snow. It was a good dinner and straight to bed. 

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 15 - G562 - Xietongmen to Xianza County via the Great Northern Route of Tibet

We departed early from Xietongmen to Xianza County since today would be a 350km journey with our elevation always above 4000m. 

There was no specific stops along this route for detours or scenic viewpoint however it was one of the most beautiful landscape in Tibet that we had ever ride.

Tibet is a plateau surrounded by mountains and until today, we did not really understand the meaning proper till riding the great northern route. 

Vast Tibetan Plateau - Route G562 

Local Sheepherder along Route G562

Riding along Route G562

Flat vast land with stunning mountainous backdrop alternating between lush greenery and barren land. It was a beautiful easy ride as there was not much mountain passes and the further we went, wildlife started popping up everywhere.

One particularly lucky encounter for us was the Tibetan Antelope. They were everywhere along the road and I kept stopping to admire the majestic creature over and over again making me very late to the hotel.

Vast Tibetan Plateau - Route G562

Spotting Tibetan Antelope along Route G562

Spotting Tibetan Antelope along Route G562

Vast Tibetan Plateau - Route G562

Tibetan antelope is considered an endangered species as their habitat was only in high altitude plains. 

Our Tibetan guide Tenzin gave us some insight to Tibetan culture explaining that these antelope were never in any danger from Tibetan people.

The locals believe that meat for food should only come from livestock breed and farmed with their own hands and never from hunted wildlife. Alas outsiders view the rare Tibetan Antelope as and exotic fur and horns to be hunted.

I spotted so many of them along the road and from afar would cut off my engine shifting to neutral to slowly glide closer and closer to not spook them. 

There was so many opportunity for a photo but with the high altitude cold and biting winds, by the time I manage to take out my camera most of the Antelope would have started walking away.

Beautiful Lush Green Plateau just before Xianza County - Route G562

That evening I reach Xianza last and after exchanging stories, apparently I spotted way too many Antelope compared to the rest of the group. 

The tour guide said we were a lucky group. Sometimes people go through the whole of Tibet never seeing even one Tibetan Antelope.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 14 - EBC – Lhatse – Xietongmen

Packing up in the morning we headed to the Everest Scenic Tourism Center buying a ticket to catch the shuttle bus to the viewpoint. China has perfected the way to establish checkpoint to ensure good tourism money is spend to see spectacular views.

This was the closest one could get to Everest basecamp in China roughly 8km away from the hikers basecamp. Any further than this would involve the hefty hikers permit and of course the requirement of attempting to actually hike to the summit of Mt. Everest.

Mt. Qomolangma aka Mt. Everest with the naked eye 

Me & Team Jaguar E-Type (Mike & Paul) at Mt. Everest Base Camp (CHINA)

At the viewpoint, Mt. Everest or Mt. Qomolangma was gigantically up-close and with binoculars one could actually see hikers climbing up to the summit on a clear day. 

We got perfect weather making the journey even more spectacular since not every group that comes gets to actually see Mt. Everest since weather plays a huge factor.

The whole morning was spend at the viewpoint and then it was back to the shuttle point where we picked up our bikes and back on the road via G349 we go to Xietongmen via Lhatse which was around 238km. 

Route G349 to Xietongmen

Route G349 to Xietongmen

Route G349 to Xietongmen

Little town of Xietongmen

This part of Tibet, the mass tourism pilgrimage along G318 vanish and we rode mostly alone through the beautiful landscape.

Little villages dotted the path every hundred kilometer or so and when we reach Xietongmen town it was barely a 1km square town that had not much things to explore. 

It was a stop to break a journey of sorts in a way mostly due to distance that we had to travel. One of the slow days in China which felt like a fleeting dream.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 13 - G318 - G219 Shigatse – Sagya – Everest Base Camp (Qomolangma National Nature Reserve)

Tour pamphlet says Everest Base Camp but its like a cheat kinda. Unlike Nepal side where one need to hike to the base camp, the China side could be driven all the way to the base camp or at least very very close to the base camp. 

A view point 8km from the actual hikers base camp to be exzact.

It was a near 400km journey today to Everest Base Camp but we all started to realized that its called something else in China. Mt. Qomolangma National Nature Reserve which is actually the Tibetan name for Mt. Everest.

1st stop was a man made tourist attraction, a 5000km marker of the national road G318. Quick stop and go with a picture taken it was then to the second stop Gyatsola pass at 5220m but for some reason due to the flatness of the climb, I could not tell it was so high other than the cold bite.

5000km Marker of Route G318

Explanation Board of Qomolangma National Reserve (aka Mt. Everest) 

Gyatsola Pass at 5220m Altitude 

We reach the ticketing office for Everest Base Camp just after lunch, started the final climb up to Kya Wu Lha Pass Viewing Platform of Mt. Qomolangma which was 5198m. 

It was a little hard trying to find the right mountain peak of Mt. Qomolangma among the many snow capped peak mountains within the cloudy weather.

Kya Wu Lha Pass Viewing Platform .... Cloudy and waiting for clear skies 

Camping Chair came out and although we still had another one hours to travel to the hotel after the pass, I decided to just hang around and wait for blue skies. 

It was a long wait which eventually most of the other tour participant left while still cloudy. All that was left was three teams, Lush, Donkey & myself which we all sat around making tea in the cold chatting away waiting for the clouds to pass.

Team Lush, Team Donkey & Team Bragge awaiting blue skies at Kya Wu Lha Pass

Mt. Qomolangma aka Mt. Everest 

Bragge & Me with Mt. Qomolangma in the background 

Slowly near sunset, we could see the clouds starting to blow away to reveal blue skies. All previous guesses of which one was Mt. Qomolangma was actually wrong. It was hidden in the clouds and it was beautiful. With the clear sky, it was very obvious which one was Mt. Everest.

Sun was setting so we all started the journey down to the little village at Tingri County for the night. Tomorrow would be the actual visit to the Mt. Qomolangma base camp tourist viewing platform where we would get to see Mt. Qomolangma more up-close but without the panoramic view of the other mountain range.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 12 - G318 - G349 Lhasa – Nargarze – Shigatse

Back on the road and this time we were doing a big detour to go see Everest Base Camp on the China side. The detour would take two days trip going a near 800km one way detour. Instead of traversing the G318, our journey took us to Nargaze County going through G349 national route instead.

First stop was Yamdrok Lake going up a small pass but this time every scenic viewpoint stop along the way was filled with tourist attraction. The main attraction was photo taking with the Tibetan Mastiff dog, or a baby goat and last but not least a Tibetan Yak.

Tibetan Yak

Tibetan Mastiff Dog 

The Mastiff dog was huge and I had no idea they exist until I saw them just sitting at their chairs in a trained manner by their owners which tried to persuade tourist to take a picture for a small fee. It was a magnificent creature and one of the rarest breed of dog in the world.

Yamdrok Lake had many scenic view along the route and I stop a few places to see the view taking the journey slowly. Locals were performing dance in traditional clothing making all the scenic tourist spot like a mini funfair where everyone get to experience or at least see some cultural parts of Tibet in the vast empty landscape.

Yamdrok Lake 

Local Folkdance around scenic spots 

Altitude 4441m around Yamdrok Lake 

The roads were also way better then G318 having no construction and no potholes. This made the ride going through mountains and lakeside a different kind of thrill after the last few days fighting potholes along G318 to Lhasa. We came up to another mountain pass which was Karola Glacier at 5020m elevation.

To the locals, the Karola Glacier which originates from Mt. Noijin Kangsang, one of the four holy mountain of Tibet is like a place for prayers. 

Karola Glacier 

Altitude Marker at Karola Glacier 5020m

Prayer flags were sold and I was bullied somewhat into buying one to be hanged up. So how it goes is that the flag is sold by the locals, and then you write your name and wishes on the flag and put it up to be blown by the wind. 

Last stop was Ancient Fortress of Gyantse Zongshan but when I got there, the clouds were starting to pour rain and sunset was quickly approaching. There was too much loitering at scenic spots spending much time just enjoying the nature around Yamdrok Lake so I gave up exploring the Fortress. 

In hindsight, the required climb up the fortress was also a major decision factor being at high altitude.

We reach Shigatse late in the evening with minimal exploration of the city. Quick food and off to bed to rest up for the next days journey.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 11 - A free day In Lhasa Visiting Jokhang Temple & Potala Palace

Finally a rest day where we had two night stay in one place instead of moving everyday. A day to sleep in and rest but then it was Lhasa the capital of Tibet where there was so many things to see and explore. 

I was a little torn but by now knew that our precious free days during China crossing would be even more packed with activities and require more energy for the day for there was so much to explore with so little time.

Hence up and early for sunshine and by 830am we were out the back door walking with Tenzin to visit Jokhang Temple. 

Jokhang Temple - Lhasa Tibet 

Entering Via the Tourist Line to Jokhang Temple 

The Jokhang or Rasa ‘phrul snang gtsug lag khang or Qoikang Monastery or Zuglagkang is considered the heart of Lhasa. It consist of a Tibetan Buddhist Temple, a temple complex and a Gelug school monastery located inside Lhasa Ancient city in Barkhor Square.

Jokhang Temple

The pilgrims would prostrate in Tibetan prayer going three steps forwards then to the knees and flat out laying on belly with head bow praying ever going clockwise around the temple. 

Jokhang Temple 

Entering the temple was another line split in two where the pilgrim gate was free and squashed to the brim with its queue going far out of the temple and turning for hundreds of meters.

We went through the express tourist gate paying the ticket fee. It was interesting that the express gate and the pilgrim gate only difference was price of admission and the queue length where once both gate reached the inner sanctuary starting point, both parties were actually entangled together and there was no difference between pilgrim and tourist.

Pilgrims outside Jokhang Temple in their dedicated Prayer Ritual for hours 

Pilgrim outside Jokhang Temple in their Dedicated Prayer Rituals for Hours 

Tenzin gave us so much information about the history and culture about Jokhang but like always the information detainment is minimal other than the majestic feeling of just being there. 

There was two important statue of Buddha brought to Tibet by a Nepalese queen Bhrikuti and a Tang Chinese Queen Wencheng. 

During the China cultural revolution, much of the temple exterior was burned but amazingly the internal structure and relics was preserved in its original state.

No photos was allowed inside the temple and the mass crowd would also made photo taking near impossible. It reminded me of visiting the sacred Kali temple in Kolkata India. Massive people and some sort of pilgrimage order within the chaos.

There was so many internal chambers and countless number of Buddha image and sculpture unique to Tibet that I had not observed in any other parts of the world. 

Without the chaos of people I would have stayed inside exploring for days but the craziness required some breather space for mental stability hence once we had pass the chambers there was no turning back.

Tibet culture dictates that one should only go clockwise so as the chaos flow goes, once you had pass the chambers, there was no backtracking other than following the flow through the temple then restarting the sequence. 

Time passed quickly without us realizing it while exploring the inner sanctum of Jokhang Temple. By the time we were ready to leave the place it was already past noon.

Tenzin gave us an hour break where each of us did our own stuff before gathering up again to head for Potala Palace. I had to rush and quickly do an oil change for Bragge. 

There was no other chance to do it with everyday going sun-up to sun-down riding so it was now or never. I ended up forgoing lunch for that reason and since I skipped breakfast I guess today would be a fasting day of visiting temples.

Potala Palace

Me at Potala Palace of Lhasa - Tibet

Our guide apparently made reservation tickets for us for the Potala Palace. Hence we all had to be there exactly at 2pm as per the appointed slot. 

Tenzin told us that the place was so packed with tourist that the tickets sold out months before the actual day but luckily reservation was possible and we had it. If we were to just rock up to the counter trying to get in, it would be impossible to get a ticket

Tibet was already high in altitude and Lhasa was around 3600m in elevation. Potala palace which was built on a small hill mount had no escalator or lift for the tourist. The only way was to climb the stairs and that 100m elevation climb was no joke in high altitude.

Wheezing my way up to the Potala Palace Lhasa - Tibet

Inner Courtyard of the Potala Palace Lhasa - Tibet 

Wheezing slowly to the top, the palace interior was a maze that only sections were opened to visitor forming a one directional path through the palace. 

To be honest I would say a photo from outside is sufficient and the exploring the interior could be left out if really short on time. 

If not for the novelty of the only Palace in Tibet and paying respect to the remains of former Dalai Lama, I would have skipped this if one were short on time in Lhasa.

By the time we left Potala Palace it was already dinner time and that was the end of our free day. I ran for a quick bite and headed back to Bahkhor Street at night to see the night light up of the ancient city marveling at how the pilgrim was still prostrating in the freezing cold.

Bahkhor Street at Night

Bahkhor Street at night

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 10 - Nyingchi to Lhasa via new Expressway G4218

There was only one agenda today. Get to Lhasa ASAP and explore the ancient Capital of Tibet. With the advise from our Tibet Guide Tenzin, he told us to skip all the detour stop along the way and just head for a beeline to Lhasa.

We trusted Tenzin so instead of the National Road of G318, we all hit the highway between Nyingchi – Lhasa which was the G4218 running just parallel with G318. 

G4218 Highway Rest Stop from Nyingchi to Lhasa 

The suggested photo stops of Xiuba Mellennium Castle Group, Huge Rock in Middle of Niyang River, Taizhao Ancient City and Mira Mountain Pass at 5013m was all skipped by taking the highway.

It was nice being able to cruise at a high speed after spending many days going through rough terrain in Tibet. The roads were lovely and the mountains scene was just as beautiful so the journey on the highway passed very quickly even though the journey today was nearly 400km

We all reached Lhasa nice and early and I immediately hit the streets of the ancient city to explore. The group split up doing their own thing with some cars going for a maintenance service while others took a rest or did some laundry. 

Bahkhor Street - Lhasa Tibet 

Bahkhor Street - Lhasa Tibet 

Bahkhor Street - Lhasa Tibet 

I was running. We only had two days in Lhasa and it was such a vibrant cultural city that I knew even a week would not be enough to fully understand this living historical city.

After so many days of just nature, Lhasa was a fresh hit of culture. Condense culture and historical legacy that made even the first few hours in Lhasa a little overwhelming to the sensory. 

Narrow streets with very old buildings mixed with locals living their lives within the little maze hidden from the mass throng of tourist made this city so much different compared to Lijiang of Dali.

Exploring the Residential Area behind Bahkhor Street - Lhasa 

Local Bread - Lhasa Tibet 

Lhasa was a living city so a little exploration beyond the main street of tourist survivor trinkets showed much of how alive this city was. 

That night we had one of our largest group dinners going out for some nice good hot pot. Interestingly we also ventured outside the old city for food and boxing the old ancient city of Lhasa was modern Lhasa with civilization clearly blossoming.

Modern Lhasa surrounding the Ancient City of Lhasa 

Great Food, Great People, Great Place - Tibet 

Traveled on: May 2024