China Day 19 – Riding from Golmund to Dunhuang

It was a new journey or rather new region now in China that we were to be riding. We had left Tibet a day before and while Golmund was in the Qinghai Province, today we would have a drastic change in landscape and riding condition.

I did not really realized how drastic the change would be although the guide did gave us some heads up. The day started simple and we all headed to the first detour stop which was Qarhan Salt Lake. 

Qarhan Salt Lake Visitor Center 

Qarhan Salt Lake 

The Ring Road Trip of the Northwest Marker - Qarhan Salt Lake

AAAA Tourist Attraction now require a ticket which includes a shuttle bus service. 

Qarhan Salt Lake natural formation used to be a free detour attraction but China was fast monetizing all the tourist scenic spot and this one was no exception.

Qarhan Salt Lake holds the distinction of being the largest salt lake in China and was also renowned as the second largest inland salt lake in the world earning its title of “King of Asian Salt Lakes”. 

The name Qarhan originates from the Mongolian Language meaning salt marsh or world of salt.

I tried to compare it to Salar De Uyuni in Bolivia but it was very different. Salt flats and salt lakes both very beautiful and very unique. Most of us did not venture deep into the salt lake attraction as the walk would take us at least 2 hours and we did not want to pay additional money for the trolley bus. 

Unique Salt Rock Weathering Formation REPLICA at Qarhan Salt Lake

The few that was wiling to fork out the money got to see the unique salt rock weathering formation that looked like alien mushroom. I only got the photo of a replica outside.

We hit the highway after that and it was a long journey. Vast empty land with dried out grass which I did not realized that we were now entering desert landscape until we came across wild camels just lazing around by the side of the road.

Jagged and rugged spiky mountain covered the views from the road and the empty land for hundreds of kilometers just never seam to end only to be broken by windmills farms along the way. 

Jagged and Spiky Rugged Mountain view along the road to Dunhuang 

Desert Land on the way to Dunhuang 

Just some Camels chilling by the roadside in the desert

Just before getting into Dunhuang, we passed by what seam like a weird structure that was so blazing bright that I thought was some kind of demonic tower from Lord of the Rings.

It was alluring in a way that I could not imagine what kinda of contraption this mega structure was suppose to be in the middle of the dessert. 

Later that night in Dunhuang, we all discussed and found out that it was a Molten Salt Solar Power Station. Such a rare sight and truly never expected to find. China was really going the extra mile in green energy technological advancement.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 18 - G109 Tuotuohe to Golmund

Today we were leaving Tibet Region and crossing over to Qinghai Province of China. We were also going down rapidly from Tibet high altitude so weather was warming up fairly fast and for some of us much more oxygen to go around.

The journey through G109 in this stretch would bring us riding parallel with the famous Qinghai-Tibet railway line where tourist would wipe the window of the train to enjoy the view going to Tibet. 

Beautiful Rock Formation along G109 

Beautiful Rock Formation along G109 

We of course had the luxury of stopping whenever a truly interesting mountain formation looms up and just taking in the sights at our own pace.

The first scenic stop was Fenghuo Mountain pass at 5010m. Yep it was weird as we still had to climb a few mountain pass to get through. 

Fenghuo Mountain Pass is a branch of the Kunlun Mountains and stands at an elevation of over 5000m with its peak being perpetually covered in snow all year round. When I was riding through however, the weather was gloomy so not very picturesque.

A Glimpse of the Kunlun Mountains 

Fenghuo Mountain Pass Pitstop 

Second stop was Hoh Xil Tibetan Antelope Observation Deck. We saw absolutely nothing. No wildlife as far as the horizon and the only antelope I saw was a purpose built tourist reststop with a golden outline artwork of an antelope. 

It was truly remarkable that we saw the Tibetan Antelope when we did a few days back. Kunlun Mountain pass at 4767m was next and I was somehow more excited to see Kunlun mountains compared to Mount Everest. 

Tibetan Antelope Monument along G109 

Every mystic legend and Asian fiction stories of hidden power somehow always have Kunlun set at the backdrop instead. I look at the mountain and wonder where the hidden village is beyond the portal door.

After the pass there was a new pit-stop for Kunlun Geopark. Looking at the map it was huge and not surprisingly, Mt. Kunlun was also a UNESCO heritage. 

Kunlun Geopark Rest-Stop along G109 

Tourist Map of Mount Kunlun UNESCO Global Geopark 

Rock Formations along G109 

Nanshankou Thousand Layer Cliff Formation 

One could really spend weeks just exploring this part of China and I made a mental note that one day I would have to come back without the tour or bike and just slowly explore.

We rode all along Nanshankou thousand layer cliff formation all the way to Golmund and by the time I arrived it was already dark. 

It was a long day today travelling nearly 400km but with so many stops and scenic views, it felt like a fleeting moment where time passed so fast without knowing.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 17 - Nagqu to Tuotuohe a little Trucker Rest Town

Last few days in remote Tibet and it was time to go downhill from Nagqu but before that could happen we had to climb Tangula Mountain Pass at 5231m to exit Tibet region and cross over to Qinghai Province in China.

The pass was blanket white snow. So much so, that I thought I was going blind not able to see anything but white. Fortunately it was a short mountain pass crossing and soon we were going down altitude wise and the weather became slightly warmer.

Tangula Mountain Pass 

Bragge develop a Cold Beard going through the Mountain snowpass

Around an hour into the journey, we all joined back up to a road block which was rare now that we had left the busy construction works at G318. 

Turned out that the road block was due to windmills blades being transported through some narrow winding roads that required both lanes.

Windmill Blades being Transported along G109

Maybe it was leaving Tibet region but today felt like a whimsical day going through the roads barely registering much into memory. 

We reached Tuotuohe which was one of the least interesting place in our entire journey. A trucker village stop where mostly people use it as a base to break the long journey between Nagqu and Golmund.

G109 - Mountains after mountains 

G109 - A long ride through nothing 

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 16 - Riding in the Snow from Xianza County – Nagqu

Early misty morning we departed Xianza and had a steady and slow climb to even higher elevation if that was even possible. Barren landscape with pristine road but visibility was really bad with the cloudy weather then out of nowhere, it was snowing.

Riding on the Snowline - Xianza County Tibet 

The number of times I could count on my one hand of witnessing falling snow. The stupidity of Malaysian in me of course had to make a stop to admire and enjoy the falling snow before freezing like hell and then mounting back the bike to go on. 

Not much further ahead and the scenery changed to pure white mountain range that had snow all the way to the ground next to the road.

Whiteout Snow Ride - Xianza County Tibet

Needless to say, I stopped every time there was falling snow and moved on again once it was too cold to bear. After the short ride through the mountain pass, we reach a very vast Tibetan plains. 

I never knew you could see land all the way to the horizon and always thought this was only possible along the beach looking out to sea. It was beautifully desolate.

Open Plains in Tibetan Plateau 

Sheep Crossing in the open plains of Tibetan Plateau 

Soon we came upon our first stop for todays journey. Seling Co Lake. When spelled out in the tour guide description for the four recommended stop today it was impressive and appetizing to the mind but to be frank, today’s journey was just simple and beautiful scenery.

The selling script by tour operator was as below.

1st Stop – Seling Co Lake

It is known and the Devil’s Lake with Radiant Reflection in Tibetan and is the largest lake in the Tibet Autonomous Region and the second largest saltwater lake in China. 

It sits at the northern foot of the Gangdise Mountains boasting an altitude of 4530m above sea level. 

Its irregular shape extend primarily in an east-west direction with a length of 77.7 km and maximum width of 45.5km. The lake area covers approximately 2391 sqkm making it a significant natural feature in the region.

Surrounding Seling Co Lake are 23 satelite lakes creating a stunning necklace like scenery. The lake is also a habitat for numerous rare and endangewred species including the largest black0necked crane nature reserve in the world. 

Pengtso Lake 

The lake serene beauty coupled with the surrounding mountains and pasture offers a breathtaking view of mountains within the lake.

2nd Stop Baggetso Lake
3rd Stop Bamutso Lake
4th stop Pengtso Lake

Yep we had a lot of beautiful lakes along the way which we skirted the fringe going though barren plains with many wildlife and a few shallow mountain passes with snow whiteout covering the landscape. 

We were already very high in altitude traveling constantly above 4000m so that few shallow mountain pass was all it takes to change the climate and scenery drastically.

By the time I reached Nagqu after a 450km journey, I was wiped out tired from fighting the weather. Mostly also due to my stupidity of always stopping to enjoy the falling snow. It was a good dinner and straight to bed. 

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 15 - G562 - Xietongmen to Xianza County via the Great Northern Route of Tibet

We departed early from Xietongmen to Xianza County since today would be a 350km journey with our elevation always above 4000m. 

There was no specific stops along this route for detours or scenic viewpoint however it was one of the most beautiful landscape in Tibet that we had ever ride.

Tibet is a plateau surrounded by mountains and until today, we did not really understand the meaning proper till riding the great northern route. 

Vast Tibetan Plateau - Route G562 

Local Sheepherder along Route G562

Riding along Route G562

Flat vast land with stunning mountainous backdrop alternating between lush greenery and barren land. It was a beautiful easy ride as there was not much mountain passes and the further we went, wildlife started popping up everywhere.

One particularly lucky encounter for us was the Tibetan Antelope. They were everywhere along the road and I kept stopping to admire the majestic creature over and over again making me very late to the hotel.

Vast Tibetan Plateau - Route G562

Spotting Tibetan Antelope along Route G562

Spotting Tibetan Antelope along Route G562

Vast Tibetan Plateau - Route G562

Tibetan antelope is considered an endangered species as their habitat was only in high altitude plains. 

Our Tibetan guide Tenzin gave us some insight to Tibetan culture explaining that these antelope were never in any danger from Tibetan people.

The locals believe that meat for food should only come from livestock breed and farmed with their own hands and never from hunted wildlife. Alas outsiders view the rare Tibetan Antelope as and exotic fur and horns to be hunted.

I spotted so many of them along the road and from afar would cut off my engine shifting to neutral to slowly glide closer and closer to not spook them. 

There was so many opportunity for a photo but with the high altitude cold and biting winds, by the time I manage to take out my camera most of the Antelope would have started walking away.

Beautiful Lush Green Plateau just before Xianza County - Route G562

That evening I reach Xianza last and after exchanging stories, apparently I spotted way too many Antelope compared to the rest of the group. 

The tour guide said we were a lucky group. Sometimes people go through the whole of Tibet never seeing even one Tibetan Antelope.

Traveled on: May 2024