Skidding and Falling Inside the Anzob Tunnel of Death.

I heard plenty of warning about the famous Anzob Tunnel of Death. Luchs warned me multiple times and numerous bikers and bicyclist in Dushanbe told stories of their journey through the Anzob tunnel yet the problem was that there was no practical alternative to the Anzob tunnel.

Pushing off from Dushanbe - Lovely Roads with Lovely Views

The tunnel is 5km long and at least it was straight but it was pitch black inside without any lighting and totally no ventilation. The locals however take the tunnels at crazy speeds and overtakes onto the oncoming lane as well making the whole experience like a death chicken game that you have no escape.

There was no practical alternative to the Anzob tunnel. That was the deciding factor really since to get to Uzbekistan, Iskandarkul Lake, Khujand or even Tashkent, one would need to go through this tunnel. The other alternative was going back through the Pamir and crossing the other crazy border the Kyzyl-Art pass which we did coming over from Kyrgyzstan.

Passing through a series of small tunnel before reaching Anzob Tunnel

Breathtaking views as I climbed to higher elevation about 2700m 

Thinking back after the fall, it made me realized that for overlanding foreigners to Tajikistan, they had no choice but to go through dangerous roads just to enter and exit the country. Anzob Tunnel was a bloodline type of infrastructure and I could not imagine why the Tajikistan government would not try to make the condition better until the fact it earned the nickname Tunnel of Deaths from all the accidents that has happened.

I knew I had no choice so I did not think too much on it. Best to stay calm instead of panicking for no reason. I stopped just before the tunnel to gear up more clothes and check that the bike and lights were all working properly then it was time to go through the 5km long of poor ventilation and pitch black tunnel.

The roads in the tunnel was fairly ok but somewhere in the midway of the tunnel where the ventilation was so bad and the lights from the tunnel entrance too far away to show any illumination, my bike skidded on something and fall. 

It felt like either a soft sandy spot or oil on the road or maybe even a water bottle but I could not tell for the fact that even with super bright spotlights on, the poor ventilation and massive amount of dust/smoke inside the tunnel cause all the bright lights to be reflected back and just blinded myself.

Bragge skidded and I fall with the bike sliding forward and myself sliding behind it, body rotating on the floor like I was on ice all the while looking around in pitch black tunnel which was lucky. Once the sliding stopped I quickly ran to the bike and tried to pick it up. 

I did a quick switch off and on to kill the engine and keep the lights on. Blinkers and every lights I could switch on was next and hoping that the next car or truck that come by would see me in time to stop and not run me or the bike over.

Fortunately another biker rocked up and he pulled over quickly dismounting to help pick up Bragge. I quickly pushed Bragge to the side and gave a thumbs up to the fellow biker. He ran off quickly for no one wanted to stay in the tunnel longer than necessary. 

I tried to ride off but for some reason the bike would not move. Checking the bike a second time showed me that the chain had dislodge from the sprokret. Tried a quick fix like how you jump a bicycle chain proved no good since the chain was popped on both front and back sprocket.

I was stuck in the middle of Anzob Tunnel with low ventilation and poor lighting hoping that every car or truck that come by wont run me over twice due to me standing dead not moving. 

There was only one way out and that was to push the bike out. I think I must have pushed Bragge about 1km before another group of biker came up and slowed down next to me. They eventually stopped in-front of me and asked me what the problem was.

Language barrier was tough but pointing at the chain gave them the idea. They quickly tied me up with their bike with the intention to tow me out. I was grateful but when the towing started I was even more afraid. 

A bike towing another bike means I had zero control and every-time the rope went slack and a sudden jerk from towing would cause me to skid a little nearly contributing to another fall. I blared my horn and shouted to slow down which the biker towing me did slow down maybe due to confusion but quickly picked up speed again.

The other bikers surrounded us and paved the way for a safe exit. Somehow I did not fall throughout the towing and manage to exit the Anzob Tunnel alive. I was really grateful to the group of bikers and before I could even catch my breath and check for injuries, one of the bikers was already opening tools to fix up Bragge dislodge chain.

Fixing up the Chain

Full Tool Kit like a pro 

A professional mechanic for he was so quick that once I had determined I was ok and started to assess Bragge, everything was already fixed up as if there was no fall at all. Like brand new and I could not believe how little damage was done from the fall. 

I gifted them my long carried bottle of Vodka 

(Yes the bottle was intact miraculously. It was tucked into the side pannier bags which was also the side that was scraping the road) 

Gifted the boys the somehow unbroken Bottle of Vodka

The whole Gang that Protected and Tow me out of Anzob Tunnel

Anzob Tunnel of Death - Tajikistan

I exchange contact with the guys. Bikers from Uzbekistan in Tashkent which I told them I would call when I drop by Tashkent in a few weeks.

Traveled on: Jul 2024