Monday, 2 February 2026

Riding from Vose (Near Kulob) to Dushanbe and the Story of Two Horny Donkey.

Roads were good, blue skies and no rain. It was a good day to reach Dushanbe and a nice easy journey for once in Tajikistan or at least that was what I thought when we departed in the morning. 150Km journey in hot blazing sun but still to me it was good weather so long as the road was good.

I pushed off first maybe 15 minutes ahead of Chye & May (Team Donkey). Hit the road and feeling the warm breeze go through my re-packed summer gear. About an hour later my music in the helmet was cut off which means someone was trying to call me. 

Good Roads to Dushanbe. Contemplating Detours to Afghanistan.

Good Roads to Dushanbe from Kulob

I slowed down to the side of the road to check my phone only to see Chye missed call. Calling him back, he said the most bizarre thing over the phone that it took me a few ‘what’?? before I could comprehend the context.

I hit a Donkey - Chye said.

I’m turning around to get to you I said and close the phone knowing that any explanation on the phone wont help anyway. 30Km backtracking later I saw their Van at the side of the road but no Donkey. 

Team Donkey Van being Towed to Dushanbe

They were ok but the Van was smashed slightly from the front and some liquid was leaking out. It was probably the coolant and Chye said the Van could still be driven just that the coolant reservoir was damaged.

I was skeptical at first but decided to think positive hoping it was just minor damage. Somehow temporary plugging back the coolant reservoir, I told Chye to start up the engine so we could have a look. 

It was leaking coolant alright but not from the reservoir, the radiator was damaged and leaking coolant somewhere inside was my assessment. Driving on would only cause engine overheating within a short time and the repair then would be tremendous.

A quick call to Luchs which was ahead and already in Dushanbe helped find a tow truck from Dushanbe and send it on its way to pick up the Van. While hanging around, I had to ask Chye how in the world did he hit the Donkey. He showed me the dash-cam footage and I was laughing so hard uncontrollably.

From afar he saw the donkey and the dash-cam even recorded audio which he said,

"May, look over there at the donkeys", said Chye 

Two donkey was running toward the road and according to Chye, it was a male donkey chasing a female donkey trying to mount her. The donkey ran onto the road while Chye continue driving the Van forward thinking that the Donkey would understand road traffic right of way regulation. 

The collision was hilarious, two donkey running into the van like getting smacked like running into a wall. The donkey soon get up after a few minutes and walked away with no more attempts of sexy time leaving Chye and a damaged Van. 

Lovely Views on the Road to Dushanbe

View of Nurek Reservoir on the way to Dushanbe 

We had so much laughter that night in Dushanbe for this Van had so much stories over the journey which is incredible. 
Over the next few days in Dushanbe the pain of forking out more money for repair is evident but Bern & Me found it fairly lucky to get away with just a radiator replacement. I sometime call it the small price of an amazing story / adventure. 

Most important is that the journey continues and the story collected. 

It is also from this story that I named the Van -> Donkey ... I am still waiting for Chye and May to actually name their Van before I change my writing going forward but somehow I think Donkey is the soul of their Van. 

Traveled on: July 2024

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