Advise from many locals and travelers who had no choice but to travel the route (Its the only road between Khorog and Kalaikhum) all suggested we start early and try to beat road block before the construction company starts work.
Hence it was 5am in the morning when we pushed off from Khorog with me leading the way through the heavily potholed tarmac. I was flying a bit too fast on the bad road and Bragge was a few times lift off both tires from the ground as I speed through some depression too fast.
Hence it was 5am in the morning when we pushed off from Khorog with me leading the way through the heavily potholed tarmac. I was flying a bit too fast on the bad road and Bragge was a few times lift off both tires from the ground as I speed through some depression too fast.
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| Gravel Roads from Khorog to Kalaikhum |
The two campers behind followed closely and after an hour overtook me as I needed rest while they continue on without a break.
First roadblock was cleared easily and then there was another which we all got stuck waiting even bikes. Luckily it was a short wait of one hour and as the construction workers break for lunch, we could continue on the journey.
First roadblock was cleared easily and then there was another which we all got stuck waiting even bikes. Luckily it was a short wait of one hour and as the construction workers break for lunch, we could continue on the journey.
Roads were no longer village dirt path but now fully compacted gravel. It was in a way a better road of wide flat gravel short of tarmac but it was a torture to the bikes.
Gravel dust was whip up constantly by passing truckers and 4x4 speeding away and I was covered in dust turning like a white powdered chicken. Along the way I heard some rattling noise and stopped to check to find that my left spotlight bracket had broken off and was dangling from its electrical wire. A quick temporary fix with cable ties and I was on my way again.
Gravel dust was whip up constantly by passing truckers and 4x4 speeding away and I was covered in dust turning like a white powdered chicken. Along the way I heard some rattling noise and stopped to check to find that my left spotlight bracket had broken off and was dangling from its electrical wire. A quick temporary fix with cable ties and I was on my way again.
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| Spot Light Bracket Broke due to Road Vibrations |
A short distance later I notice that my main baggage which I also used as a back rest support was somehow loose. It was not supporting my back and every push to get that support felt like the bag was moving. I stopped to check if the strap was loose and notice that my bracket had sheared off and broken in two parts.
Somehow the bracket was still holding onto the Top Box so I figured that the balance 2 point bracket was taking over the workload. I decided to go very slow trying to reach Kalaikhum where I could try to find a welder to fix up the bracket the next day.
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| Semi OK Roads from Khorog to Kalaikhum |
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| Broken Top Box Bracket |
I was really slow and kept stopping every few kilometers to recheck the bracket making sure that the Top Box wont suddenly break off on me. At one of the stops, I notice that my right side rear shock-absorber lock-nut had somehow fallen off and the shock-absorber that is holding the rear tire could pop out at any time.
Worst, the roads were rocky and happily inducing such dangerous movement to pop it out. Checked my phone to see if I could call campers ahead to turn around for some help showed me no-signal. I was on my own for this break down.
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| Unloaded to the Bone |
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| Popped out Shock Absorber |
I had no choice. Walked the bike to the nearest bunker wall and started unloading the bike while thinking how in the hell am I going to fix this. I tried everything to pop the shock-absorber back into the proper slot but lacked the strength to compress and slot it back into the bolt.
Waving down some locals boys, I used their muscle power to compress the absorber while I gently push it back into the right slot. First problem partially solve but I was still missing a lock-nut. By chance I asked if they had any spare nut with them and praying that the nut to somehow miraculously be the right size to do the job.
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| Muscle Power - Popping back the Rear Shock Absorber into place |
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| Temporary Fix since missing the Bolt had fallen off somewhere. |
They scour their car for tool parts and one of the guys shouted loudly holding up a nut high in the air with a big smile on his face. He tried to screw in the nut and it fits and more laughter and many pats on shoulder while he proceeded to tighten the nut.
The nut seams a bit tight for the bolt and as he force tighten the nut, it still would not go in and barely reached the snug point of the shock absorber. I unscrew the nut only to find that the thread was ruin. The nut was the wrong size apparently and now I had another problem on top the first one.
Another guy saw my bungee cable and came up with an ingenious idea to strap both shock absorber together through the seat. When I saw it done, I had to smack my head for I knew this was the simple yet effective solution that I had seen many times in South East Asia where bikes had those strap across the seat.
The nut seams a bit tight for the bolt and as he force tighten the nut, it still would not go in and barely reached the snug point of the shock absorber. I unscrew the nut only to find that the thread was ruin. The nut was the wrong size apparently and now I had another problem on top the first one.
Another guy saw my bungee cable and came up with an ingenious idea to strap both shock absorber together through the seat. When I saw it done, I had to smack my head for I knew this was the simple yet effective solution that I had seen many times in South East Asia where bikes had those strap across the seat.
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| Repacked luggage system |
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| Continue onwards towards Kalaikhum down dusty roads |
Temporary fixed done, I decided to re-strap everything onto the back seat. The bracket was not going to hold anything now especially with dirt road and another 50km to go. I threw away everything that was of not important to make space for everything else to fit on the back seat.
Food box and all the food was thrown out. Chain oil, vodka, some clothes and all my canned food was left behind by the bunker.
Baggage was placed into the box and both side bags was strap on top the box making the whole luggage system bouncing up and down since I had no proper secure place to lash them tightly. I traveled really slow this time and made my way to Kalaikhum taking another three hours to go through that 50km distance.
Baggage was placed into the box and both side bags was strap on top the box making the whole luggage system bouncing up and down since I had no proper secure place to lash them tightly. I traveled really slow this time and made my way to Kalaikhum taking another three hours to go through that 50km distance.
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| Road Block from falling rock |
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| Road Block by Blasted Rocks |
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| Little Village in Afghanistan across the river |
At 1km before the hostel, there was another roadblock and this was a scary one for the rocks were still free falling after the construction blasting. It took an hour waiting for the falling rocks to stop temporary and the excavators to somehow clear the rubble before they let any vehicle through and that is still with debris falling continuously.
Reach the save point Kalaikhum … I’ll have to figure out repair the next day.
Traveled on: July 2024
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