The days plan was for once uncharted. There was no final destination target today and it was really dependent on if we found a nice spot to camp along the way heading out.
 |
| Murghab - Tajikistan |
First stop was sim-card at the Murghab and by some luck or unlucky stars the phone shop (Telco-Megafon) was closed on a Monday. We never did knew if it was a public holiday or a normal Monday closure but due to that all of us had no communications hence decided to stick close not wandering too far away solo.
I decided to exchange more USD to Tajik som at the local bank for it felt ominous that morning to me for some reason. No communications, better have sufficient money at least was my thoughts. Petrol top up from the bucket and it was time to hit the M41 Pamir Highway again.
 |
| Megafon Sim Card Shop in blue on the Left which was closed |
 |
| Local Market accessory store in Murghab |
 |
| Murghab Market |
The first detour was to Shoubulak. A good 25km detour from the M41 main road but the dirt track was fairly dry and well distinguish that it was a nice off-road by choice for once. I quickly ditch the well and nice gravel off road for the dry ground making my own trail. The off-road while looked splendid for the other vehicles were too loose for two wheels making me skid many times.
Endless plains and beautiful mountain view backdrop greeted us as we ventured further off-road. Shoubulak was an abandon Russian Solar Observatory from back in the soviet days and for some reason the horns of Marcopolo was also scattered within the abandon buildings and tractors that used to support the observatory.
 |
| Detour into the wild - To Shoubulak Solar Observatory |
 |
| Photo never could capture that feeling when you are alone in the wilderness looking at that view |
 |
| Shoubulak Solar Observatory |
 |
| The Boys climb to visit UNESCO HERITAGE - Shakhty Cave Painting |
A broken building in the middle of nowhere became a tourist attraction. Overlander’s are crazy thats for sure. It was cold and way too windy. We contemplated camping there at Shoubulak for the night, the view at night must be amazing without any light pollution for miles but at 2pm it was still early in the day that we decided to move on to check out the Shakhty Cave painting nearby hope that would be a better campspot with some windshield.
Shakhty Cave Painting was a UNESCO Heritage site but one of the worst I have ever seen. Left bare and out in the middle of nowhere, the pre-historic cave paintings looks like it would last a few more years at most before disappearing totally.
 |
| Whats left of UNESCO Heritage Shakhty Cave Paintings |
Contemplating however that we were at 4200m elevation approximately, and in a super cold environment in summer, one do wonder how humans decided to settle here in the barren wasteland thousand of years ago.
Heading back to the main road, all was good until the last 5km where my concentration lapse thinking I was going to be out of these soft gravel roads and BAM! I lost balance letting the bike slowly lean and fall to the right. It was a slow fall luckily since I was already so slow going through the soft gravel and the weight shift was unfortunately too much for me to right it back in time.
Heading back to the main road, all was good until the last 5km where my concentration lapse thinking I was going to be out of these soft gravel roads and BAM! I lost balance letting the bike slowly lean and fall to the right. It was a slow fall luckily since I was already so slow going through the soft gravel and the weight shift was unfortunately too much for me to right it back in time.
 |
| Maybe I should just Camp here tonight ... |
The two vehicles, Luchs & Donkey however was so far ahead that I had no hope of calling them back for help. I was definitely alone in the middle of nowhere now. No chance of a passing vehicle every two hours as well since this was a detour off-road.
For once I had to really pick up Bragge from a fully lying down position. Summoning all my strength, the bike would not budge beyond that initial 3 inch tilt. I was using the proper technique as well remembering well from all the study in youtube many months ago.
Tilting the bike wheel to the right and using my legs and hip mule to lift it by backwards pushing instead of carrying. I ended up having to remove all the baggage and also the top box to try again with every muscle fiber straining just to get it back upright.
I was flat out gasping for air after the pick up. Strenuousness activity at 4200m elevation was not a good idea. Just as I was strapping all the luggage back, I saw Luchs Vehicle coming back to check up on me. Yep it took me long enough that they actually turned back worried.
We pushed on to M41 but could not find any nice spot to camp for the night and eventually headed all the way to Alichur. There, I activated my backup accommodation that was marked on my map many months ago.
I was flat out gasping for air after the pick up. Strenuousness activity at 4200m elevation was not a good idea. Just as I was strapping all the luggage back, I saw Luchs Vehicle coming back to check up on me. Yep it took me long enough that they actually turned back worried.
We pushed on to M41 but could not find any nice spot to camp for the night and eventually headed all the way to Alichur. There, I activated my backup accommodation that was marked on my map many months ago.
Usually all my backups are the cheapest not putting much thought or research on it beyond “ Yes there is accommodation here” which most times turn out garbage.
Sher’s House Inn at Alichur was the place and this time thou it was lovely with a nice traditional Russian Banya which was perfect for a bath in the cold weather.
Sher’s House Inn at Alichur was the place and this time thou it was lovely with a nice traditional Russian Banya which was perfect for a bath in the cold weather.
 |
| First time using a Banya |
 |
| First time using a Banya |
Traveled on: July 2024
No comments:
Post a Comment