Oblivious to Where I'm Going: A Quick Run Through Osh while Picking up GBAO & Border Exit Permit

Friday, 5 December 2025

A Quick Run Through Osh while Picking up GBAO & Border Exit Permit

Luchs, Donkey and me made our way from Arslanbob to Osh in our own pace and time. Meaning I was the last to packed camp and leave Arslanbob as they both just needed to close their boots and drive off while I had to repack everything onto the bike.

We did not have any fixed plan in mind other than getting to Osh that day and all ended up ideally in different hotels according to our budgets. I of course landed in the cheapest hostel I could find.

Exploring downtown Osh - Kyrgyzstan

Walking around downtown Osh - Sulaiman Too Mountain at background

It was this type of great understanding that the three of us get along well traveling together. We could do our own things in our own pace yet having the confidence that we would look out for each other always checking in on whatsapp.

That night in Osh we had dinner together and laid down the list of important things to do before we all brave through Tajikistan in a few days. The list was as followed

1. Get the Kyrgystan Border Exit Permit (USD 30) from Destination Pamir

2. Get the Tajikistan GBAO Permit (USD 20) from Destination Pamir

3. Make multiple Photocopy of GBAO Permit

I had read somewhere that throughout the Pamir Region where the checkpoint for GBAO permit, it was faster and easier to leave a copy of the GBAO instead of the original. This way we also had a few GBAO copy stashed in case the original gets taken away.

4. Withdraw USD from Local ATM (For me at least)

5. Find Money Exchange to get Tajik Som.

There is no ATM for most of Pamir Region and there was also a high chance the ATM would not work so we had to last at least until the bigger town of Ishkashim

Three Storey Yurt in Osh - Kyrgyzstan

Jayma Bazaar - Osh Kyrgyzstan

Money Changer Street in Osh

Jayma Bazaar

Jayma Bazaar map

We had a free day in Osh and everyone ran their own errands separately including sightseeing and only really met up for dinner. I made a quick dash to see Osh city, walking everywhere for half a day checking out Osh Jayma Bazaar, the three story Yurt, and finally UNESCO heritage Sulaiman-Too sacred mountain.

Sulaiman-Too when one reads up on its history, it really is impressive in its pre-historic value and culture however visiting the mountain and the museum without much prior knowledge can make one feel like it was just another tourist attraction. No more magic in this modern world but a remembrance of the past and a great View of Osh.