Little Khiva and Daytrip to Ayaz Kala Fortress

Khiva was a nice getaway and long break from the constant travel. I stayed a total of five nights in Khiva but mostly doing nothing other than walking around during sunset and just lazing in the Hotel. 

Partially also due to Khiva being very small and easily completed within a day. The weather was also brutal in the summer with temperature scorching up to 41 degrees. It was helpful as well that the private room with private bathroom only cost USD 10 a night.

Khiva City Walls 

The unfinished Blue Minaret of Khiva 

The old town Itchan Kala where most of historical buildings reside had an entrance fee of 200,000 som. It’s not a must but that ticket gives entrance to multiple museums throughout the ancient city for 24 hours. 

Luchs gave me his ticket which was still valid for the next day and I quickly abuse it as much as I can to save up some money. That night was the last we three caravan would dine together as Luchs would make their way to Turkmenistan in the morning

Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum 

Khiva City Walls 

Itchan Kala Minaret - Khiva 

Thinking back, those days I would not part with the extra money to arrange a guide to cross over Turkmenistan and then a hefty cost of carnet de passage for the subsequent crossing over Iran to Turkey. 

Now that the Iran war blow up in 2026, the only feeling I felt was that time is short and one should travel and explore while they can. It may be 10 years or 20 years in the future before the region would be open again for a world traveler exploration and then it would never be the same.

Khiva was very compact and very picturesque. It was a good proper tourist destination but for me it was the perfect do-nothing city to catch up on writing and planning. Donkey would leave on the following day after Luchs for Nukus going towards the Russia to transit towards Europe.

The day they left was also a daytrip day for me from Khiva to visit some ruins nearby. Donkey decided to join in, and we did a daytrip together to visit Ayaz Kala and Topraq Kala fortress. 

Daytrip Riding in the Desert

Ruins of Ayaz Kala Fortress

Ruins of Ayaz Kala Fortress 

The burning heat riding that 100km to the fortress at the edge of Kyzylkum desert was no joke. Abandon civilization in ruins with no people in sight felt surreal and under normal touristic circumstances I would have skip it. The benefit of doing a long-term travel was that, there was always time for little things.

After visiting the fortress, we parted ways for the last time where Donkey would make their journey west and me going back to Khiva for one more night and thereafter mark my furthest point ride to the west. 

I would backtrack going east riding alone starting the long journey home to Malaysia. Back to solo travel with no more mental support. It was going to be different somehow.

The ride back from Khiva to Bukhara on familiar highways felt more difficult somehow. I knew the road and the expectations now, but the desert heat was really biting through all my protections. 

Jaloladdin Manguberdi Monument in Urganch

It was really hot going up to 41 degrees and with minimal chance for rest stop, I had to just burn through 100km at a time non-stop before spotting that small hut by the side of the road for a long rest.

Traveled on: Jun 2024