Acclimatizing in Sary-Tash and spending all our Money

All three of us (Luchs & Donkey) departed Osh on the same day to head closer to the border of Tajikistan. However since we all stayed in different places in Osh, we also all did different things on our own and departed independently.

I went around the morning hunting bike workshop hoping to get a sticker or maybe some trinket and ended up with a haircut before pushing off to hit the main road to Sary-Tash. Luchs & Donkey did not mention if they would stay in Sary-Tash for they could still camp in their campers while I in a tent would freeze in the cold high altitude weather.

Haircut in Osh

Signboard to Sary Tash Province ??? 

Road to Sary-Tash

Road to Sary-Tash

Road to Sary-Tash

Mid-journey, Luchs message came in and they were headed to Lenin Peak Base camp after Sary-Tash for the night. They would join up with us the next day morning for the crossing to Tajikistan at the border. Donkey message was even simpler. Whichever guesthouse I landed, secure a room for them too.

I found this nice little guesthouse (Mural Guesthouse) overlooking Lenin Peak and just basicly a great view of the mountain range in its majestic form with all the snow making it even more mythical.

Sary-Tash little town with Trans-Alay Mountain Range in the Background

Me & Donkey was the only people in the guesthouse. Even the owners were not staying inside and it felt like we had just rented the entire hotel for the price of a bed.

Kitchen was off limit thou so we decided to cook outside camping style while admiring the view. We definitely went all out I would say with Donkey cooking up rice, omelet and a big pot of soup with pork ribs which I was surprised how they manage to find it in Kyrgyzstan.

Team Donkey & Me cooking Dinner at Sary-Tash

Dinner with a View - Sary-Tash

Dinner at Sary-Tash

Sit Back with a smile knowing we will conquer that mountain range the next day

This time I contributed to the food at least instead of freeloading. Edwin’s special, local vegetable spicy stew made from local carrots, cucumber, red peppers, eggplant and the special instant packet spicy minced meat that I had been carrying since Thailand. Halfway through simmering the stew and Donkey suggested adding beehoon into the stew.

We had a feast that last day in Kyrgyzstan and with no more money left, we will have no choice but to leave for Tajikistan the next day. All our cash was spend on groceries and balance dumped into petrol. Sary-Tash had only one ATM and not money changer plus the ATM was not working.

Traveled on: June 2024

A Quick Run Through Osh while Picking up GBAO & Border Exit Permit

Luchs, Donkey and me made our way from Arslanbob to Osh in our own pace and time. Meaning I was the last to packed camp and leave Arslanbob as they both just needed to close their boots and drive off while I had to repack everything onto the bike.

We did not have any fixed plan in mind other than getting to Osh that day and all ended up ideally in different hotels according to our budgets. I of course landed in the cheapest hostel I could find. 

Exploring downtown Osh - Kyrgyzstan

Walking around downtown Osh - Sulaiman Too Mountain at background 

It was this type of great understanding that the three of us get along well traveling together. We could do our own things in our own pace yet having the confidence that we would look out for each other always checking in on whatsapp.

That night in Osh we had dinner together and laid down the list of important things to do before we all brave through Tajikistan in a few days. The list was as followed

1. Get the Kyrgystan Border Exit Permit (USD 30) from Destination Pamir

2. Get the Tajikistan GBAO Permit (USD 20) from Destination Pamir

3. Make multiple Photocopy of GBAO Permit

I had read somewhere that throughout the Pamir Region where the checkpoint for GBAO permit, it was faster and easier to leave a copy of the GBAO instead of the original. This way we also had a few GBAO copy stashed in case the original gets taken away.

4. Withdraw USD from Local ATM (For me at least)

5. Find Money Exchange to get Tajik Som.

There is no ATM for most of Pamir Region and there was also a high chance the ATM would not work so we had to last at least until the bigger town of Ishkashim

Three Storey Yurt in Osh - Kyrgyzstan

Jayma Bazaar - Osh Kyrgyzstan

Money Changer Street in Osh

Jayma Bazaar 

Jayma Bazaar map

We had a free day in Osh and everyone ran their own errands separately including sightseeing and only really met up for dinner. I made a quick dash to see Osh city, walking everywhere for half a day checking out Osh Jayma Bazaar, the three story Yurt, and finally UNESCO heritage Sulaiman-Too sacred mountain.

Sulaiman-Too when one reads up on its history, it really is impressive in its pre-historic value and culture however visiting the mountain and the museum without much prior knowledge can make one feel like it was just another tourist attraction. No more magic in this modern world but a remembrance of the past and a great View of Osh.

Sulaiman-Too UNESCO Heritage 

Caves Network inside Sulaiman Too Mountain

View of Osh from Sulaiman-Too Mountain

View of Osh from Sulaiman-Too Mountain

Traveled on: June 2024